William Somerset Maugham in a Box

I read a lot, but, with few exceptions, I feel no urge to maintain physical possession of books after having read them. Quite the contrary, I find them put to much better use if I pass them on as gifts, leave them in public places or donate them to a library.

Walking through Calgary, I came across this beautiful box, part of the Little Free Library network, next to a bus stop on 4th Street/27th Avenue NW.

Maugham1

Enchanted, but not expecting much, for these boxes usually hold thrillers, fantasy or girly novels and other books that are given away for a reason, I nonetheless peeked inside. Hope never dies.

To anyone waiting at the nearby bus stop, it must have seemed that I had found a chest of gold or, to use a metaphor more suitable to Alberta, struck oil, for my smile widened and my eyes lit up, discovering that some gentle soul in the neighborhood had deposited books by William Somerset Maugham. To whoever it was, thank you very much!

Maugham2

Rarely have I found such good literature and exactly what I have been wanting to read in one of these little library boxes, but this was perfect! I had just read Maugham’s The Moon and Sixpence and the Ashenden short stories, satisfying both my guilty pleasure of spy stories as well as my appreciation of good literature.

Links:

Posted in Books, Canada, Photography | Tagged | 5 Comments

Random Thoughts (24)

  1. Good news: the days are getting longer.
    Unless you live in the Southern hemisphere, then you are doomed to darkness.
    And unless you live on the equator, in which case you are missing out on something fabulous.
  2. My sister asked me why I am on TV all the time. I had no idea, so she sent me this photo. It seems there is a guy trying to copy my style, my demeanor and my looks. Careful, only I am the real one!

  3. You remember the article about my birthday walk from Vienna to Bratislava? I am delighted to read, and thankful to Tim Burford for bringing it to my attention, that my steps followed those of Patrick Leigh Fermor, role model in terms of wandering and writing, if only for one day.
    Rereading the passage about Carnuntum in my article, I notice that I didn’t know that he had stopped there, but that, by some eerie coincidence, I have referred to him in exactly that part of my article.
  4. If you don’t know Mr Fermor, I suggest that you order A Time of Gifts right away. I know of no better travel book.
  5. For International Women’s Day, let me remind you of its purpose.
  6. To celebrate the 10th anniversary of the financial crisis, I am completely broke this year.
  7. One of my jobs as a non-native English speaker is to correct the US President’s English. past or passed
  8. Having a cold heart reduces the risk of being killed by a heat-seeking missile.
  9. I had a Google alert for “Andreas Moser”, hoping I would receive news about myself.
    All I learned, though, is that there are many people with the same name.
  10. A while ago, Saudi Arabia was lauded for opening cinemas in 2018. (Which, by the way, is kind of pointless when people have internet at home.)
    But nobody expected them to use their embassies to film gruesome splatter movies.
  11. I find it inspiring to set up an aspiring spy ring.
  12. Thanks to the anonymous benefactor who sent The Know-It-All by A.J. Jacobs. I am wondering if this is a fitting homage or an allusion to my smartassness. 220px-the_know_it_all
  13. I feel sorry for the people who want to become scientists and accidentally become scientologists.
  14. My sleep pattern has no problem with jetlag. But my stomach is confused.
  15. Maybe Saudi Arabia is very modern, offering assisted suicide for its citizens.
    You want to end your life? Just write a critical blog, and the Kingdom will take care of everything.
  16. Facebook says I respond to 10% of your messages. I say, just give me some time. Until the next winter, at least. 10% response rate
  17. This Lent, I will forgo work for 40 days.
  18. When people ask me what part of Germany I am from, do they think that we are still divided into East and West?
  19. This film about communist Romania is now playing on Netflix.
  20. One of the neighbors estimated my age at 26.
    But I don’t know if it was my looks or my irresponsible lifestyle.
  21. Quality of life could be measured by the time between the decision to go to sleep and when one actually falls asleep.
  22. a. A drone brings Gatwick Airport to a standstill.
    b. No Zeppelin flight has ever been impeded by a drone.
    => Zeppelins are superior to fixed-wing aircraft and should be reintroduced on a large scale.
  23. Why I don’t run in winter. run winter
  24. The tobacco tax rates in Alberta (129% on cigars) are good for my health.
  25. Thanks mainly to Christian voters, Brazil is now going to try out a fascist president. And the German Brazilians were reliable in their support, too, it seems. Because in the state of Santa Catarina, where most emigrants from Germany settled, Bolsonaro got almost 76% of the vote.
  26. Similarly, Wisconsin was the US state with the highest influx of German immigrants. Might that be the reason why high school students there show the Nazi salute when posing for a class picture? nazi-salute
  27. The London Riots in August 2011 were better organised than Brexit.
  28. With everyone self-radicalizing, I want to become a radical atheist.
  29. Donald Trump actually corrected his tweet a few hour later. But he never said “thanks”, of course. passed
  30. When people thank those working over the holidays, they mention police officers, nurses, soldiers and bus drivers.
    They always forget about spies.
  31. Speaking of spies, Tony Mendez has passed away. That’s a good opportunity to watch Argo again.
  32. When I came to Calgary, my postcards from Vienna and from Andalusia were already waiting for me. cards fridge Calgary.JPG
  33. Another postcard from Velez Blanco made it to Romania. velez blanco mit rumänischem buch
  34. And in Peru, someone is happy about a postcard from Bavaria. BayWald in Peru.jpg
  35. Often, I find arguments too filiopietistic, but I can’t think of the word when I need it.
  36. Hawaii is considering to raise the legal minimum age for smoking at 100 years. That’s tough, I thought, until I read that cigars will be exempt.
  37. Thanks a lot to Angie Kordic for the books The Confidential Agent by Graham Greene and It can’t happen here by Sinclair Lewis! It’s nice when former flatmates stay in touch over the years. 220px-itcanthappenhere
  38. Romania has the power to fascinate and enchant.”
    (Donald Tusk, and I agree 100%)
  39. Setting the record about German efficiency straight, there is a podcast about the disaster of the new airport in Berlin.
  40. Thanks to Jeramy Flora for Yuval Noah Harari’s 21 Lessons for the 21st Century! 415-qh52npl
  41. Does anybody have experience with Patreon? I am curious to try it, so I can remove the annoying ads from the blog. And with enough revenue, it would allow me to devote more time to better and more in-depth articles.
  42. Some people didn’t believe me that llamas are regular pets in South America. Here is the cute evidence:

Posted in Austria, Books, Brazil, Canada, Economics, Germany, Iran, Language, Politics, Religion, Romania, Saudi Arabia, Travel, UK, USA | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

East Germany and West Germany, seen from the outside

In the old days, before Erasmus, academic exchanges were still complicated: visa, health insurance, exchanging money. And then there was no internet, so you couldn’t start looking for accommodation before the move. The first week was usually spent at a hotel, buying a newspaper every day and telephoning all the “room offered” ads in the classifieds section. Foreign students coming to Germany faced an additional hardship: they had to decide in which of the two Germanys they wanted to study.

If you are surprised by the last sentence, you are either too young or you grew up (like me) in West Germany, where we would assume that, given the choice, everyone would naturally prefer West Germany over East Germany. “And you couldn’t travel that easily to East Germany,” many will object, but I just listened to an audio document from 1988, which completely destroyed this and other assumptions I had been holding.

In the last full year of German separation, Deutschlandfunk, a West German radio station, interviewed British students of German studies who had spent exchange semesters in West Germany and in East Germany, some of them even in both countries consecutively. Thus, they could report from both Germanys with first-hand experience and were able to compare their experiences. If you speak German, I recommend listening to the show. The students’ observations are refreshingly open and spot-on. And there is a ton of surprises in there, beginning with the mere fact that there was an academic exchange between the UK and the GDR (German Democratic Republic, the official name of not so democratic East Germany) at all. To the students from Britain, East Germany seemed more exotic than the FRG (Federal Republic of Germany, the official name of West Germany and indeed of the now reunited Germany), the latter of which one could always visit as a tourist. Thus, many students opted for a stay in the socialist country.

The British colleagues experienced the West German universities as rather anonymous mass universities, where they felt left alone, which pretty much describes the state of German universities today. It was hard to make acquaintances, let alone real friends. “The Germans weren’t interested in talking to us,” they said, and many who are currently trying to integrate themselves in Germany are nodding knowingly. In East Germany, on the other hand, the reception was better organized, but also more friendly and heartfelt. The British students suspected that this was due to their exotic status as West Europeans in the GDR. Because they also reported that exchange students from “socialist brother countries” (for example Bulgarians and Poles) were not treated brotherly at all, but with German nationalistic condescension.

Any foreigner coming to Germany is afraid of bureaucracy (even today), and both countries were bureaucratic. But in East Germany, there was always someone willing to help, while the students in West Germany all reported hearing the sentences “this is not within our purview” and “that is your problem” over and over again.

What they did prefer in the west, was studying itself. The freedom prevalent at West German universities was confusing at first, but the lectures were at a high academic level. In East Germany, the students felt that too little was demanded of them, and parts of the lectures even seemed “childish” in their anti-capitalist propaganda.

Interestingly, they couldn’t make out huge differences in economic terms. Like we in West Germany, the British students had heard stories of long lines in front of empty stores in East Germany and were surprised when they didn’t see any of that. They did find people in West Germany to be more materialistic (if they already made that finding in the 1980s, I wonder what they would say today), but the quality of life in East Germany was slightly better. There, restaurants were not only better, but also accessible to average citizens. Even students didn’t cook themselves, but went out. Food in the university canteens was the same in both German countries, by the way: “Every day potatoes, meat and some gravy. And in both countries the same cheap plastic dishes. I had always imagined a prison canteen to be like that.”

Outsiders are of course the perfect people to find out what West Germans thought about East Germans and vice versa. Taking German studies in the UK, the students had apparently learned about both countries in detail (as we have learned from John le Carré, the British Secret Service preferably recruited scholars of German). They were shocked how little people in West Germany knew about East Germany, how little they were even interested. There was an incontrovertible negative image, not based on personal experience and, more tellingly, with no curiosity to make one’s own experiences that might shake the preconceived notions. These descriptions resonated with me, because even today, this is the image of Eastern Europe that many Germans or indeed West Europeans have. It is poor, it is negative, one doesn’t want to travel there, one doesn’t want to meet anyone from there, and one doesn’t want to learn that it’s really not like that. One of the students said that she always received the same reaction when she told people in West Germany that she had previously lived in East Germany: “Oh”, followed by silence. The same reaction I receive when I tell people in Germany about Romania or Lithuania. “Oh”, and then an empty facial expression, laying bare the emptiness of the mental map east of the former Iron Curtain.

In East Germany, on the other hand, people had an overly positive image of the West, which was not in line with reality. A funny anecdote: the young British academics spoke of unemployment in Great Britain. The East German students were shocked, because “we have been reading about this in our books, but we always deemed it anti-western propaganda and didn’t believe it.”

The interviews end with a surprising moment (from minute 42:25 in the recording). The journalist asked the students, who had gotten to know both German states, where they would prefer to work if they had to choose between East and West Germany. The choice was unambiguous. These intelligent, educated experts on Germany all preferred going to the country which would no longer exist in that way just one year later, not least thanks to the contribution of their fellow classmates there.

Links:

Posted in Cold War, Germany, History, UK | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

For my readers in Yugoslavia

There are countries where I am received with car bombs and threatening phone calls (Malta), and then there are countries where I am received with hospitality and curiosity, leading to newspaper articles and invitations to speak at TEDx conferences (Romania).

I am happy to announce that the most beautiful country in Europe, Montenegro, is in the second group. Last winter, when I lived there, I met Ljiljana Lukšić, who writes a travel blog, Lily’s Travel Notes. She asked if she could interview me for her blog and I, hoping to get out of it, explained that my Montenegrin was not good enough by far.

But then, remembering that even my grandfather had made an effort to learn Serbo-Croatian when he was a prisoner of war in Yugoslavia, I kept studying until I reached the level where I could at least conduct an interview in writing.

Here is the result.

interview Lilys Travel Notes

Uživajte!

Links:

Posted in Montenegro, Travel | Tagged , , | 17 Comments

The next cat will be in Cornwall

This house sitting is turning into a booming business. Apparently, word on the cat internet has it that I am lovely and caring, for I am receiving one assignment after the other.

As I am going to return from Canada to London on 28 April, I have been looking for a gig in Great Britain. Conveniently, I found one that starts on 29 April: I will be watching a cat in Cornwall until mid-May. (If the cat will still be alive by then and won’t have starved to death because of the expected food shortage after Brexit or, a shocking thought, turned into food itself).

harbour2

Thus, as almost always on my travels, it turns out that life in a big city will be followed by a small town. The cold North will be followed by the sunny coast. Winter by spring. A cat by a tomcat.

For two weeks, I will be staying in Newquay. While the rest of Cornwall is a peaceful hiking paradise, that small town is more of a surfing hot-spot. But I hope that the surfers won’t have woken up yet in early May or that they will still be on the southern hemisphere. And I am sure I won’t run into too many stoned wannabe hippies on the South West Coast Path.

hiking-the-south-west-coast-path-featimg-3

From mid-May, I will then be very occupied by university seminars and term papers, meaning that I will spend most of the summer in Germany. But there should be time for a few hikes in between. And I might return to England in summer for yet another house sit. Keep your fingers crossed!

Links:

Posted in Travel, UK | Tagged , , , | 11 Comments

Legroom

Many travelers spend hours looking for a flight, comparing different airlines, considering which class they will book and planning what seat they will reserve. As a reason for spending 600 $ more for the same flight, they often cite 2 to 20 additional centimeters of legroom. I can understand that if you are a giant, but most passengers need more bellyroom rather than legroom.

I apply a different strategy in order to stretch out my long legs: I am friendly and nice  (which should be natural, but thanks to the divergent behavior of 90% of customers, it becomes something special) and don’t try to transport bulky luggage in the cabin. Usually, I only carry a book and a notepad. I have never asked for a special seat, but again and again, the ground crew prints out a boarding pass with the coveted seats next to the emergency exits or one of the stewards asks me if I don’t want to move to one of the free seats there. I seem to convey the impression of remaining calm and helpful in case of an emergency. Rightly so.

When I flew from Iquique to Santiago de Chile with LATAM, I got a seat with more than 2 meters of legroom.

Beinfreiheit.JPG

This is better than first class.

That flight should also be beautiful and easy to navigate for the pilot. You simply follow the Pacific coast, going south, looking down on high waves crashing on rocky coasts or tapering off on sandy beaches.

Flug1.JPG

And when you see Santiago after 1700 km, you turn east, and that’s it, another flight completed. But probably, that’s not how one navigates anymore. For emergency landings, the Panamericana highway is always below, in a helpfully straight line.

The guys sitting next to me, who, in the case of an emergency landing, would also be tasked with the dirty job of pushing fellow passengers through the door, appear far less trustworthy than me, however. A 70-year old man looks as if he is flying to a date with death. The young guy diagonally in front of me is scrolling through photos of attractive girls on his cell phone (now I know the purpose of that Instagraph and that I really don’t need it). As he writes one of them a message, apparently inviting her to a date, he asks if “zoological garden” is spelled with Z or with C. His mate punches him for that, calling him an “idiot”. Nevertheless, the stewardess never pauses to pour them more “cerveza” with C and Z.

Another strategy for getting a good seat is patience. Each time again, I wonder why people are standing in a queue at the gate, often for a long time. There are seats for everyone, really. And if not, you get a huge compensation and a free stay in a hotel in Chicago or in Paris.

Therefore, I always remain seated, cool as a cucumber, ordering another ice cream, reading, observing and writing, while everyone else gets all agitated. Once, on a flight from Tel Aviv to Munich, I did the same, got up as the last person in the waiting hall and presented my boarding pass, friendly and relaxed.

The El Al guy took it and ripped it apart.

“לעזאזל”, as we say in Israel. Did I wait too long this time?

“I am sorry, this boarding pass is no longer valid. I will print you a new one,” the young gentleman then explained and immediately followed up on his promise. Wondering what all this was about, I got on the plane, and only there did I notice that he had awarded me a seat in first class. That way, I got real quality sleep for four hours and missed better food than I usually miss.

But now I am still in Chile. On the right, the sun is sinking into the Pacific. On the left, the summits of the Andes are glistening. These are the same summits that planes regularly crash into, leading to cannibalism among the survivors.

Flug2.JPG

Thinking of that, I vow to make no more jokes about overweight passengers.

As if LATAM guessed that I would go on to write this article, they gave me a seat in the first row two weeks later.

Links:

Posted in Chile, Israel, Photography, Travel | Tagged | 14 Comments

“Persepolis” by Marjane Satrapi

I had long been too snobbish to read graphic novels. Cartoons like Tintin or Calvin & Hobbes are great, but when it comes to serious subjects, I prefer prose. Also, I read a lot on trains or in restaurants and didn’t want to be seen with a comic book in public. Silly, I know. But now I am cat sitting, where I am pinned to the couch for hours, and it’s too cold to read in the park anyway. Thus, when a friend, knowing of my interest in Iran, gave me Persepolis, I was delighted and ready to change my opinion of graphic novels.

81bnp4y9t0lThe style is clear, precise, not overloaded with details. Ligne claire is the expression, I believe, and I like it. It allows you to read quite quickly, and you know that everything that is drawn has some importance. There are no decorative or distracting accessories.

The second thing that I really liked is the perspective of the little girl, Marjane Satrapi herself, growing up in Iran in a liberal, secular, middle-class family, witnessing the 1979 revolution, suffering from oppression and religiosity and of course soon from the 8-year war between Iraq and Iran.

This is of course the story of many Iranians. When I was in Iran in 2008 and 2009, I was surprised how many families still maintained a liberal, secular worldview, holding on to private freedoms, treasuring them at home or with like-minded friends, and passing them on to their children, all the time trying to dodge at least the sharpest repercussions from the regime.

The viewpoint of a child is highly advantageous in that she can be funny about serious issues, without it seeming out of place. Many of her classmates’ parents or relatives are imprisoned because of their opposition to the Shah (this is before 1979) and she is a bit jealous of them. When her uncle becomes imprisoned, he becomes her absolute hero.

grandmother1

Once the war starts in 1980, the class divisions also become quite obvious. It’s mostly the children from poor, rural families who get drafted to walk through minefields.

The only thing I found a bit difficult to believe is that Ms Satrapi already read Marx and Hegel and was discussing dialectical materialism when she was twelve or thirteen. But maybe there are families like that, and I have just been unlucky in that regard. On the other hand, my childhood home was never bombed by Saddam Hussein, so I don’t want to complain.

When Ms Satrapi is fourteen, her parents worry too much about their daughter’s safety. They send her to Austria in a kind of Kindertransport. Again, this is something that most Iranians could not afford and which shows the class distinction. However, even 30 years later, I know hardly any Iranian family in which the adult children haven’t left or aren’t trying to leave Iran. At the time depicted in Persepolis, nobody thought the Islamic Republic would last that long.

marjane_satrapiThe funny thing in Ms Satrapi’s case is that she had been attending a French lycée in Iran until 1979, when it was forced shut, and was sent to a boarding school in Austria, which was run by Christian nuns and much stricter and more religious than anticipated.

As she moves to Austria and grows up in a foreign country, the book shifts more to her personal development. For my taste, there is too much about relationships, sex and drugs. I am sure some readers, maybe those of a similar age to the protagonist at the time, find that interesting, but I would have been more interested in Marx, Bakunin and the immigrant experience (which is covered a bit).

Even as she returns to Iran after a few years in Austria, the book remains focused on private life. She eventually goes to university in Iran to study graphic design, which is where the book becomes more interesting again. Here again, it’s about the constant battle between citizens and the state. There were some interesting revelations, which I won’t spoil for you.

runningisobscene

There are a few aspects which I liked less, for example the rather harsh treatment of older women, of whose physical appearance Ms Satrapi often makes fun. But then, it’s written from a child’s or a teenager’s perspective, and maybe young people talk about adults like that. (I forgot because it was so long ago.)

At times, the character just isn’t likable at all, quite self-centered, full of pity. In my mind, her parents and her grandmother are the real heroes, and maybe I would have enjoyed a book about them even more. Like hundreds of thousands of Iranian parents, they have sacrificed their whole adult lives for their children, without having them around or even near, while parents in other countries can usually relax and lean back or travel the world once the kids go to university. Ms Satrapi went to France after graduation, and it’s her parents who tell her not to come back to Iran, but to enjoy freedom.

And then, there should be a word of caution. While Persepolis will bring valuable insight into Iranian society, particularly to people who haven’t been to the country themselves, it should not be taken as a scholarly or even journalistic work. Wile the character is thoughtful of her role within family, school, relationships and society, she lacks reflection about the role of Iran in the world and too often assumes the national(istic) narrative of Iran/Persia as a superior civilization whose suffering can possibly only be the result of mischievous machinations by, not very creatively even as conspiracy theories go, the USA, the UK and Israel. If the clever child really read all the works of political philosophy, she shouldn’t be quite so gullible.

But then, nobody who reads a graphic novel should expect serious analysis. To people who mainly read Persepolis because, as a graphic novel, it’s quick to read (an advantage I acknowledge and which makes me more open to other graphic novels), I would recommend Shah of Shahs by Ryszard Kapuscinski. At 170 pages, it is quite a quick read, too, and it may be one of the best books not only about the 1979 revolution, but about revolution in general.

Links:

Posted in Books, Iran | Tagged | 10 Comments

An unexpected find

I am trying to get rid of most stuff and have been quite successful already. I have no car, only one hat, and I am even letting go of books. But one thing is piling up: notebooks, full of memories, stories, ideas and observations.

Notizblöcke

And sometimes, when I open one of those notebooks, I discover piles of money, millions of it. It seems that all this time, I have been much richer than I thought.

Rubel

Unfortunately, I have kept the money long beyond the existence of the country that once issued it. I always knew that saving was stupid.

Links:

Posted in Georgia, Travel | Tagged , , | 12 Comments

Did you notice the Irony? (23) Machismo

Dear Calgary Sun, I don’t think we need a microscope to spot the machismo on this page.

machismo microscope Calgary Sun.JPG

Nice juxtaposition, really, and all too common, sadly. Whenever I read about traditional gender stereotypes or objectification of women, I just need to flip a few pages to see the problem itself. On TV, it’s worse. Actually, come to think of it, you may even find it on this blog. :-(

Links:

Posted in Canada | Tagged , | 5 Comments

The Danger of a Beautiful Day

It was supposed to be winter, but the day was unseasonably mild, warm even.

I dressed quickly, confident that I needed neither hat nor gloves, and left the house, lured outside by the sun, the warmth and the joyful day they promised. I walked up the nearby hill, energized by the spirit of spring.

frozen lake

The clouds were fluffy, white and moving fast, turning nature’s painting into an animation, at least for those with patience enough to stare into the distant sky.

I stood on the bridge over the creek, looking at the melting ice, the families of ducks and the families of humans, the latter adhering to the signs banning them from feeding the former. I was more worried by the dogs, for there were no signs telling them not to feed on me.

The squirrels seemed to have no food shortage at all, judging by their happy faces. With the melting snow, they found the caches of food that they, or their colleagues, had prepared a few short months ago.

Children, oblivious to all of this, were running around, irresponsibly unleashed by their owners.

Trees were waking up from hibernation, freshly brewed maple syrup running through their veins (this was in Canada, after all). The flowers must have gorged on something delicious, too, for they looked deliriously colorful that day.

Whenever I passed a bench, I sat down, soaking in the sun. As I was reading a chapter or two of a novel, the sun became stronger as if she wanted to look over my shoulder and partake in the pleasure.

bench

When I came home after four, five, maybe six hours, my heart content as only a day in nature can achieve it, I checked my e-mails. Two potential clients complained that I hadn’t replied to their messages, taking their business elsewhere. This would mean another month of struggling financially, of eating nothing but rice and soup, another month of dread.

A sense of beauty, of happiness even, can really be detrimental to so-called success.

Yet, on the next sunny day, I will go out again. There is enough winter in the world, literally and metaphorically.
Links:

Posted in Canada, Life, Photography | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments