My Travel Year 2017 in Photos

In 2017, I actually got around quite a bit. So much that my passport fell apart. But instead of souvenirs, I only brought back dozens of notebooks, filled with stories to be told, and a few photos to accompany them. (Actually, some of you did get souvenirs, but that’s for the elite circle of supporters of this blog.)

2018 will be a much quieter year, with a focus on university and on publishing articles about past travels. To help me decide with which stories to begin, I’ll give you an overview of what happened in 2017 and expect your comments on what you are most curious about.

The year 2017 began at one of the most beautiful places, at Lake Titicaca in South America. First in Puno on the Peruvian side, then in Copacabana on the Bolivian side.

lady in boat crossing checkpoint.JPG

And wow, was I happy to be back in Bolivia, which remains my favorite country. If I ever have to pick one city to live for the rest of my life, I wouldn’t hesitate to move to Cochabamba. But that time, I decided to stay in La Paz until April.


I was lucky to be there on 21 February, the anniversary of the constitutional referendum, with manifestations from both sides.

colorful dresses under bridge.JPG

But even if I had missed that, I needn’t have worried. There were protests and marches every day. Living quite centrally, I was awoken by drums or fireworks regularly.

It was almost too late, however, that I discovered a wonderful hiking group, Free Trek, and so I could only join them once. Valle de las Animas looks like out of this world, but it’s actually just a short walk from the bustling city.

Tal Wolken Menschen.JPG

But the best adventure during that time was my walk to Chacaltaya.

Friedhof Panorama.JPG

In April, it was time to fly to Colombia, where I was very positively surprised by Bogotá. An organized, bicycle-friendly, green, cultural city full of bookshops, exhibitions and chess players in the street.

chess players.JPG

But I had to move after a few days because I had already rented a small house in the countryside.

erster Abend.JPG

I was about to leave Colombia and South America by boat, so I had to go to Cartagena, the port city in the Caribbean. Cartagena looks beautiful, but it’s the opposite of Bogotá: hot and humid instead of mild and pleasant, hedonistic instead of intellectual, and superficial instead of cultural. Where Bogotá had chess players, Cartagena had beauty queens.

beauty queens.JPG

By May, I was already looking forward to return to Europe and happy to get on the cruise. Two weeks on the high seas sounded like an enticing prospect, but it wasn’t really as relaxing as my first cruise. Maybe it was too much Cartagena and not enough Bogotá.


But that way, I got to some islands which I would otherwise never have visited. On Sint Maarten/Saint Martin, I even had a friend waiting for me, who took me around the island, providing lots of information on the politics, economics, social structure and race relations of the island. And when we crossed from Sint Maarten to Saint Martin, I was already back in the European Union – in the middle of the Caribbean!


A few weeks later, everything was destroyed by Hurricane Irma.

The same fate befell Antigua, where I was surprised by how British-colonial everything still looked, despite most people being the descendants of slaves, who, by the way, staged a revolt in the 1730s. Yes, the climate was so hot and humid that I preferred to spend a few hours at the local history museum in St John’s.

school girls.JPG

The last island stop on the cruise was Madeira. Returning to Europe was as beautiful as I had hoped, with mild climate, flowers blooming, and finally a city where I could sit in the park and read a newspaper without having to listen to everybody else’s music at inhumane volume. I almost wanted to quit the cruise and stay in Funchal for longer.

park Funchal old houses.JPG

But luckily, I stayed aboard until we reached mainland Portugal. I already liked Lisbon, where I only stayed briefly, but Sintra blew me away. Castles and monasteries, hidden in the forest or perched on mountaintops, all connected by hiking paths, and with beautiful gardens, romantic ponds and mysterious tunnels. A magical place!

Pena through trees.JPGAnd then I was back in Germany. Well, at least it was summer, so it was sunny, green and perfect for hiking. And not having to worry about anacondas and piranhas was a bit of a relief.


But somehow, I can never stay in Bavaria too long without getting depressed by the petite bourgeoisie there, so already for my birthday in July, I fled to the Caucasus.

In Tbilisi in Georgia, I was lucky to stay in a part of town that hadn’t been modernized yet. Beautiful old courtyards, crooked buildings, wooden balconies, with elements of Persian architecture.

Uhrturm Theater.JPG

It immediately struck me as a city where I could imagine living, but Kutaisi and Zugdidi were nice, too.

Yerevan had more concrete than green, but still a nice cultural vibe, while Dilijan turned out to be the hiking paradise in Armenia.

Kloster im Wald.JPG

In Azerbaijan, I felt the weight of the one-family autocracy in Ganja, while Göygöl was completely different and welcoming.


But the biggest surprise on my Caucasus tour was Abkhazia. The capital Sukhum has the grandeur of a Black Sea resort with a long tradition, but, as an effect of war, flight and emigration, a decimated population. Even at the height of summer, the city was never crowded.

train station Suchumi

As some of you know, I have been toying with the thought of moving to a Russian-speaking place to learn Russian. Because nobody in Abkhazia expects anyone to learn Abkhaz and because almost everyone is bilingual, but not many people speak English, it seems like the perfect place for such language studies.

As I returned to Germany, I met a former classmate of mine who was living in Britain at the time, in Lancashire to be exact. It was wonderful to see how well we got along after not having seen each other for at least ten years, and he invited me to visit him in Lytham St Annes, that “bubble of happiness”, as he called it.

windmill large.JPG

But we also had time to explore the seedy side of Blackpool, watch an impressive airshow in Southport


and go hiking in the Lake District.

Blick ins Tal.JPG

Once again, I realized how perfect Britain is for hiking. Not only the beautiful landscape, but also a really good infrastructure, with public transport, pubs in every small village and even food deposited by friendly people along the path.

flapjacks large.JPG

And then I returned to university in October, and traveling was over. Well, I did go to Hagen in Northrhine-Westfalia for one week. Allegedly, it’s Germany’s most boring city, but I honestly didn’t find it too bad. But maybe that was due to an intensive week of history lectures.

Now that she is retired, my mother is becoming more interested in traveling, and so she suggested a trip to Prague for a couple of days in autumn. It turned out to be the perfect time because it was still warm, but the leaves were already golden and red.

In Germany however, November was becoming more and more depressing. I urgently needed to escape and chose to move to Kotor in Montenegro for three months. I had been there before and liked it a lot, but this longer stay reconfirmed that Kotor really is one of the most beautiful cities in the world – even in winter.

mist flag.JPG

So, now it’s up to you. Let me know what you are most interested in, and I will get cracking on the articles, edit the videos and publish more photos.

Posted in Abkhazia, Antigua, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Bolivia, Colombia, Europe, Georgia, Germany, Madeira, Montenegro, Peru, Photography, Portugal, Sint Maarten, Travel, UK | Tagged | 25 Comments

Playing the concertina is exhausting

That calls for a break every now and then.


Photographed in Cochabamba, Bolivia.

Posted in Bolivia, Music, Photography, Travel | Tagged | 1 Comment

International Women’s Day

Today is International Women’s Day, but many of you don’t seem to know how to properly celebrate or commemorate it.

  • It’s NOT a day for those who forgot Valentine’s Day,
  • NOR is is a second chance for those whose object of affection has since changed.
  • It’s NOT a day to send flowers and hearts and other cheesy messages to your Facebook friends.
  • It’s NOT Mothers’ Day.
  • NOTHING is achieved by wishing someone a “happy Women’s Day”.
  • It’s NOT a day for companies to offer “Women’s Day Specials”.

No, it’s a day to fight!

Partisans Italy.jpg

As these Italian partisans show us, you can still be fashionable if you want to, but the guns and the fight are what counts.

8th of March is a political day, a day of justice, a day of equal rights and participation. Special Women’s Day offers with lots of stereotypical pink hearts are rather counterproductive and backward if you want women to progress beyond the status of Barbie dolls.

The only place where I have seen it done right was in Bolivia:


(This reminder was also published on Medium.)

Posted in Bolivia, Feminism, History, Italy, Travel | Tagged , | 7 Comments

How to deal with disorganized clients

A lady who already displayed some warning signs wanted me to advise her about a child custody case in Germany. In the following conversation, I am the part in dark blue.

600 eur.JPG

I haven’t heard from her again.

By the way, I am surprised by the number of people contacting me and trying to hire me to get a copy of their own divorce decree because they lost it. It would be so easy to get it from the lawyer who represented them in that proceeding, from the court or even from the ex-spouse. Really no need to hire a new lawyer for that.

Posted in Family Law, German Law, Law | Tagged , | 3 Comments

Montenegro is not “tiny”

Last night, a man threw a grenade at the US Embassy in Podgorica. Nobody was injured because it was midnight and everybody was at home. Disappointed to discover this, the man used his second amendment grenade to blow himself up.

Podgorica embassy bombing

That is sad, particularly for the people who need to clean up the mess. I hope they get some extra pay.

Anyone who knows me knows how outraged I am about people making noise, whether by fireworks, church bells, music, terrorism or parties, particularly late at night. But in this case, I am almost more annoyed by the media reports about it, particularly in the US press.

They all explain that Montenegro is a country and where it is. As if nobody knew that! Anyone who has seen Casino Royale, conveniently released in 2006, just as the country became independent, knows Montenegro.

Nonetheless, I can still understand that. Better safe than sorry. Better explain it once again than have readers confuse Montenegro with Madagascar. Also, the articles need to be filled with something.

But what outrages me is that every report in the US press uses the word “tiny” to describe Montenegro.

For example USA Today and Fox News:

Montenegro borders the Adriatic Sea in southeastern Europe and its capital is Podgorica. […]

The U.S. established diplomatic ties with the tiny Balkan state in 2006 after it split from much larger Serbia.

Or the New York Times:

Montenegro, one of the world’s youngest nations, is a tiny country of 640,000 nestled between Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Kosovo and Albania. It was once part of Yugoslavia; later, it became half of the nation of Serbia and Montenegro before declaring independence in 2006.


Montenegro is located in southeastern Europe and was once part of Yugoslavia.

The U.S. established diplomatic ties with the tiny nation in 2006 after it split from much larger Serbia.

First of all, what’s the informational value of that adjective?

Second, it’s not true. Montenegro is NOT tiny! If you think it is, try to walk from Herceg Novi to Bijelo Polje! Microbes, atoms and prematurely born mice are tiny, but not Montenegro.

Granted, with 13,812 square kilometers, Montenegro is no Russia or China. But there are smaller countries or states that I never see referred to as “tiny” in every newspaper report: Qatar, Jamaica, Lebanon, Puerto Rico, Rhode Island, Cyprus, Bahrain, Singapore, Delaware and of course the Vatican. Why do we not regularly read about “the tiny country of Lebanon” or the “tiny state of Delaware”?

If there is one adjective that should accompany Montenegro in every report, it’s “beautiful”.

By the way, if there will be a travel warning issued by the US State Department, you can safely ignore it. Montenegro is safe and friendly, definitely safer than the USA itself. And we all know that the State Department tends to overreact with their travel warnings (example 1, example 2).

Posted in Media, Montenegro, Terrorism, Travel, USA | Tagged | 28 Comments

Random Thoughts (21)

  1. For writers, it must be saddening to see how ill-informed some people buy books.
  2. There seems to be a little bit of corruption in Montenegro.
  3. When I returned to university to study history at age 42, some were wondering what the point of studying in mid-life would be. Miguel Castillo is 80 years old and is studying history in Spain. He decided to do so after surviving a heart attack because he wanted to use the remaining time in his life more actively than the average pensioner.Miguel Castillo.jpg
  4. This year, Mr Castillo will go to Verona for an Erasmus semester. Luckily for him – and for me – Erasmus has no age limit.
  5. My biggest problem with Erasmus is actually that I am spoiled for choice with all the countries and universities participating.
  6. The Revolutions Podcast is quite informative, but sadly, I have a very low tolerance towards mispronunciations, especially if every name, place and concept is pronounced as if it was located in Texas. The names of South-American revolutionaries were really not “Bowlivar” or “Sucray”.
  7. no reincarnation
  8. Due to the lack of a twin study, I will never be able to discount the possibility that I am smart because I ate a lot of ‘Smarties’ in my childhood.
  9. The theory of relativity is relatively irrelevant.
  10. Who knew that camels also work in the snow?Kamel Schnee.jpg
  11. As an ophidiophobic hiker, I think countries should only be allowed to join the EU once they have eliminated all snakes.
  12. My short story about millionaire translators was quite well received in Montenegro. I was surprised because it was rather long (2350 words) and about a quirky subject.
  13. That made me think about publishing fewer short posts (and relegating more of them into these Random Thoughts) to focus on longer and hopefully better articles.
  14. This is the perfect week for studying: wetter kotor
  15. Chancellor Merkel in a speech: “It’s time to stop mosering around.”
    My name has become a verb in German, meaning “to constantly criticize”. Many readers will understand why.
  16. Where have I heard Donald Trump’s claim about his “very good brain” before?

Posted in Books, Education, History, Language, Montenegro, US election 2016 | Tagged , , , | 17 Comments

Happy Valentine’s Day!

Friedhof Valentin1.JPG

But remember: It won’t end well.

Friedhof Valentin2.JPG

You have been warned. Quite graphically, even.

Friedhof Herz Dolch.JPG

Another tip: If you are cheesy in public, holding hands, kissing and such, try to imagine how silly you look to others.

Friedhof Engel Kuss.JPG

So, no public affection please!

(Photographed at the cemetery in Kotor, Montenegro on Saint Valentine’s Day 2018 because I had nothing better to do that day.)

Posted in Death, Love, Montenegro, Photography, Travel | Tagged , | 4 Comments