Yugonostalgia

When enough years have passed since the end of a dictatorship, some people will become nostalgic. They will talk up the positive aspects of the dictatorship, forgetting about the labor camps, the political prisoners, the censorship. They will promote their favorite dictator by saying that he was better than much worse dictators, as if that was the relevant standard. Often, they will mix up a longing for the time when they were young and energetic with a longing for the “good old times,” not realizing that they would have been at least equally young and energetic if they had grown up in a democracy.

Jugo1 Jugo2 Jugo3

One thing I learnt however, in countries from Iran to successor states of Yugoslavia and the Soviet Union, is that people are really cross if they didn’t need a visa to travel to other places in the past, but now do. In part, this is due to former Easter European countries having joined Schengen, sometimes due to a general tightening of visa rules, like in the US, and sometimes it’s a natural effect of the disintegration of empires.

Like one man in Transnistria told me: “When we had the Soviet Union, I could travel freely. I could go to Latvia, Belarus, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, everywhere. Now I need a visa for everywhere.” Despite the political, economic and personal freedom gained, the loss of a certain aspect of freedom of travel weighs more. And this overlooks that the real problem was often that the dictatorial governments didn’t let their own citizens go.

Whenever I see this kind of nostalgia for dictatorships or oppressive regimes, I wonder how those who survived persecution, the gulag or political imprisonment feel about it.

And, if Yugoslavia or the Soviet Union were really so great, why did they collapse?

(The photos were taken in Cetinje, Montenegro.)

Posted in History, Montenegro, Photography, Politics, Travel | Tagged , , | 13 Comments

Why does the rest of the world not know about Târgu Mureș? It’s a conspiracy!

Târgu Mureș is a beautiful and cute town in Romania, in the heart of Transylvania, with friendly people, an interesting history, the most romantic boulevard in Europe and a spectacular Palace of Culture.

Yet, outside of Romania, nobody has ever heard of it. Even most Romanians have never been here and are completely oblivious to the beauty and charm of this town. Why? At first I thought that it was due to the ongoing confusion between Târgu Mureș and Tîrgu Mureș, but most people in the world haven’t heard of either, so that cannot be the reason.

I investigated this mysterious matter more deeply, and I am proud to say, I think I have found the answer. Sadly though, the answer is shocking. There seems to be a conspiracy to deliberately hide news from, of or about Târgu Mureș from the rest of the world.

“How can this be done in a world of free news and information, particularly over the internet?” you ask. But the internet is exactly the problem. Or actually, the funny language used in Romania is the problem. The rest of the world doesn’t speak Romanian, so they use an automatic translator to read websites that report from or about Târgu Mureș. And mysteriously, the results look like this:

Liverpool 1 Liverpool 2

“Tg-Mures”, the abbreviation used by people who want to stay on the sideline of the Târgu/Tîrgu conflict, becomes Liverpool.

Ok, you will say, then let’s spell out “Targu Mures” to prevent this from happening. Let’s try:

Southall 1 Southall 2

Oh. Now Târgu Mureș becomes Southall.

But it becomes even more confusing because the same Târgu Mureș becomes a different city in other translations.

Colorado Springs 1

Colorado Springs 2 Colorado Springs 3 Colorado Springs 4 Colorado Springs 5 Colorado Springs 6

Colorado Springs is the place that comes up most often when you translate Târgu Mureș.

I don’t know about Southall, but this may finally explain why Liverpool and Colorado Springs are so well known, although they are objectively less beautiful, less interesting and less important than Târgu Mureș.

This raises the question how something like this happens. It cannot be a translation mistake because the words in Târgu Mureș don’t mean anything like “springs”, let alone “Colorado”. And because it happens again and again, someone must have fed this into the translation database at Google, Yahoo, Microsoft or Bing.

Why would anyone do that? I was contemplating this question when I remembered that there are hundreds of Romanians working for international IT companies. It must be one of them who has a particular grudge against Târgu Mureș and who developed this devilish prank in a conspiracy to keep our lovely town from the world’s attention. (It can’t have been a Hungarian, because they would have changed the name to something unpronounceable. It can’t have been a German either, because they would have bombed the city instead.)

My assumption is that one of the other Romanian cities vying for the nomination for European Capital of Culture in 2021 has bribed someone to insert this glitch into the translation software to lower the international profile of Târgu Mureș and to thus reduce our chances. The only other explanation is that someone has a personal grudge because a girl from Târgu Mureș left him or because he was kicked out of university here. The investigation continues. Your clues are most welcome.

And to my international readers: If you read anything about Colorado Springs, please be careful. It could be about a completely different place on a different continent.

Posted in Language, Romania, Technology | Tagged , | 3 Comments

The Transformers of Podgorica

When I went to Podgorica, I stayed at a hotel because I had to run the half marathon. I didn’t want a Couchsurfing host to have to get up early on a weekend and to see me in my sweaty clothes upon my return (although I did exactly that to another Couchsurfing host in Budapest a few months later). But I did agree to meet with Marko, who had offered to give me a tour of Podgorica.

“Let’s meet at the central square, next to the transformer statue,” he told me.

I had no idea who this Montenegrin transformer was, but I thought I would recognize him. Expecting something like the Jesus statue in Rio de Janeiro, I guessed it would have to be a hero, a partisan, an architect, a king or a monk.

Instead, it was a giant monstrosity composed of old metal and car tires, clothed in a supersized camouflage jacket, about 12 meters tall and with terrifying claws. It was one of the figures from the Transformers movie. Now I understood.

Transformer Platz der Republik

But Marko had been right, it did dominate Republic Square and was easy to find. Actually, the square was so empty that I felt silly for having told Marko exactly what I was wearing to make sure that we would recognize each other. Well, who would expect the central square of the capital city of a European country to be so empty on a Saturday afternoon? The giant Transformer must have scared everyone else away.

Transformer Platz der Republik 2

On our walk around town, I spotted a few more of these beasts.

Transformer1

Transformer2

Petar I

No wait, the last one is Petar I, who ruled Montenegro when it was a theocracy. Yes, we Europeans used to have theocracies, too. Which is even scarier than the Transformers.

Links:

Posted in Cinema, Montenegro, Photography, Travel | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

When the underworld came knocking

Walking across a bridge in Kalemegdan Park in Belgrade, Serbia, when suddenly the ground moved up under heavy groaning and moaning was one of the scariest moments in my life. I could only take this one photo, and then I ran.

alien Kalemegdan

I haven’t dared to return since.

Posted in Photography, Serbia, Travel | Tagged | 8 Comments

A colorful birdhouse

Lithuania is full of beautifully painted wooden houses. The blue, green, red and orange houses manage to add color even to the longest and coldest of winters.

On a visit to Druskininkai I saw that this is not limited to human dwellings:

birdhouse

Posted in Lithuania, Photography, Travel | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

“Why We Lost” by Daniel Bolger

Maybe a book that promises “a general’s inside account of the Iraq and Afghanistan wars and how it all went wrong” had to disappoint, but I didn’t expect it to disappoint so much.

Lieutenant General Bolger sounds contrite in the introduction: “Our primary failing in the war involved generalship”, “we demonstrated poor strategic and operational leadership”, “This was our war to lose, and we did.” So I expected some sharp analysis with clear lessons and recommendations. Instead, I got plenty of detailed accounts of specific engagements with the enemy, a firefight here, a raid there, an ambush over there. Maybe there is something to be learnt from these action-novel type stories, but Bolger doesn’t draw any conclusions. He doesn’t connect them, there is no big-picture analysis.

why we lost bolgerWhenever Bolger writes about the political, cultural and religious situation in the Middle East, you can sense his uncertainty about the situation by his referrals to “they”, “them”, “these people” as if everyone living in Iraq or Afghanistan are part of one monolithic group, or to Shia and Sunni as if this is the only important characteristic shaping someone’s views towards a foreign power or international forces. His understanding of the Middle East is very simplistic, and maybe this in a way does explain “why we lost,” although probably not the way the author had intended.

I already wanted to quit the book when I came across the term “fire-worshipping Zoroastrian Yezidi” (p. 158). Yezidi are distinct from Zoroastrians and neither of them are “fire-worshipping,” which if used without any explanation makes them appear like cavemen. It’s like calling Catholics a “candle-worshipping religion”.

I continued, hoping for the book to improve. But then it got to Abu Ghraib and the mistreatment of prisoners (p. 168-170). Bolger expresses understanding for the US soldiers who humiliated and abused Iraqi prisoners and attributes part of the blame to “captive Iraqis [who] proved anything but docile”. Granted, they probably weren’t, but I don’t see how this could justify mistreatment. Bolger realizes the negative effect of Abu Ghraib, but tries to pin it on a “a few dumb young MPs [who] inflicted a lot of damage to the U.S.”

I fired the book into a corner when I read “To counter all the hyperventilation about torture, some perspective is in order. The U.S. military did not torture anyone. None of the subjects of the Abu Ghraib photos were killed or injured,” and so on, apologetically and, particularly with hindsight, strangely out of touch with evidence.

General Bolger still displays the reflexes of protecting the people serving under him (maybe honorable while in service, although even this is doubtful in cases like Abu Ghraib, but definitely not helpful for an honest analysis) and of an Army guy who puts all blame for torture on the CIA. But if someone writes in 2014 that “the CIA apparently had some different rules, but even they very rarely apply any enhanced interrogation techniques, none that are life-threatening,” I must assume that the author didn’t follow the news very closely. Even before the release of the report on CIA torture by the Senate Intelligence Committee, many cases of torture, and yes, death and other long-lasting adverse physical effects, were reported.

So I stopped reading on page 169 of 436 pages, because what could you possibly learn from such an author? Not only a superfluous, but indeed a terrible book. Older, but much better: Imperial Life in the Emerald City by Rajiv Chandrasekaran.

Posted in Afghanistan, Books, History, Military, Politics, USA | Tagged , | 4 Comments

Berlin Wall in Lithuania

Visitors who come to Berlin often wonder: “What happened to the Berlin Wall?”

I found a chunk of it in Lithuania, at Europos Parkas, an outdoor art museum.

To address any suspicions about larceny: it was a gift by the Federal Republic of Germany.

No wonder there isn’t much left of the Berlin Wall to see in Berlin if most of it was given away, because Germany didn’t want to afford a proper present.

Posted in Germany, History, Lithuania, Photography, Travel | Tagged , | 2 Comments

A truly secluded location

Compared with the people living in these houses which I photographed from the train to the Montenegrin mountains, Henry David Thoreau lived in the center of civilization.

Haus im Wald 1 Haus im Wald 2

You may need to click on the photos in order to enlarge them to even see the houses.

Posted in Montenegro, Photography, Travel | 3 Comments

Belgrade at Dusk

dusk1 dusk2 dusk3 dusk4 dusk5 dusk6 dusk7 dusk8 dusk9

I could somehow reconstruct the names and purposes of all these buildings with a map, but I hope that some of my readers from Belgrade will do this much more easily. :-)

Posted in Photography, Serbia, Travel | Tagged | 4 Comments

Where the Gondolas are made

Deep in Venice, between all the ostentatious palaces, the churches, cathedrals and museums, there are a few wooden sheds, so out of place as if they had just arrived this morning with the train from South Tyrol.

This is where carpenters make the gondolas.

Gondelschreinerei

And these are the finished products:

gondolas Venice

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