Back in Europe

After 18 months in South America, I am back in Europe. I have already written extensively about the reasons for my return. Here are the first impressions from the old continent:

  1. You cannot imagine how happy I was when I set foot on European soil in Funchal on Madeira.Ankunft Funchal.JPGGreen, a pleasant climate, wonderful architecture, no more noise, newspapers in English and German for the first time in one and a half years, large parks. grün Funchal.JPG
  2. I was seriously impressed by Portugal. In Sintra alone, I saw more different styles of architecture than in all of South America.Pena mit Burg.JPG
  3. Traveling through Germany by car or train is idyllic. Green everywhere, neat villages, hilly, forests of trees instead of billboards with advertisement.
  4. But Germany also appears too spruced up. Everything is clinically clean, as if treated antiseptically every day. Even the roads are so clean that you could eat from them. Hedges and lawns are trimmed better than my hair. The cars are cleaner than my desk.
  5. But life is lacking in all of this. You can walk through villages or residential neighborhoods without seeing a single person in the street, in the gardens or in the park.
  6. What I do appreciate however is that you can walk through the forest for hours without being attacked by dogs.
  7. Latin Americans who had already been to Germany sometimes asked me: “Why are there no children in your country?” Now I understand the question. There are really not many children in Germany, and the few apparently never leave their rooms.
  8. My Couchsurfing host in Portugal put down the shopping bags in front of her house and we had to walk back to the car around the corner to get more bags. “Shall I watch the bags?” I asked. “No,” Joana laughed, “you are in Europe again. Nobody is going to steal anything here.”
  9. The greatest joy is to be able to sleep through the night without being interrupted by barking dogs/music/fireworks/religious processions/screaming/shouting/honking cars.
  10. On the first day, I had currywurst and spezi, two culinary delights that haven’t conquered the world yet. But I guess I haven’t fully arrived in Germany until I have had a döner kebab again.
  11. Why are all dishes in German restaurants sufficient for two people? It’s almost like in Cochabamba.
  12. I still have a few Eastern Caribbean dollars from Antigua. If anyone among my reader collects coins and banknotes from far-away countries, please contact me. av_b
  13. What I miss most about South America is that you can go out at almost any time of the night and you will get anything from hamburgers, fruit juices, minced meat, light bulbs, notepads to toilet paper within a radius of 500 meters. In Germany, on the other hand, you need to plan your shopping trip like a military campaign because of the restricted opening hours and the small number of shops.
  14. Speaking of military campaigns; my parents have realized that they don’t have much time left and they have belatedly entrusted me with investigating our family history. Although I have been to 55 countries already, it turns out that there are a few places that members of my grandparents’ generation visited which I haven’t seen yet: they attacked Norway, Poland, Russia and Northern Africa and were imprisoned in the USA and in Yugoslavia. Two granduncles emigrated to the United States.Lazarett Polen.jpgInsofar as the research will yield interesting results, I may therefore post something about my family from time to time. Because maybe others have questions on which archives to approach and on how to handle this quest systematically, too.
  15. I am also interested in reconstructing my grandfathers’ “travel routes” in World War II and to travel along that route now to discover and portray how much Europe has changed in only two generations.
  16. But the coming months I will mainly spend at an undisclosed location in Germany to put the adventures of the past years on paper.Schreibtisch 2017.JPG
  17. It’s nice to live in a house with thousands of books again.
  18. But I don’t have any emotional feeling of being “back home”. I am happy to be in Europe, but when I return to Bavaria after years of traveling and I notice that everything is still the same as it was 2, 5 or 7 years ago, it rather reaffirms my opinion that I didn’t miss anything here.
  19. a26b4a41ccd58c305a65401c14f3eff0Returning to Germany after one and a half years in South America offers a drastic shock regarding the visual attractiveness of our compatriots. And that’s putting it mildly. For that reason alone, Germany should accept more immigrants.
  20. But it’s great how long it remains light at night! Closer to the equator, the sun goes to sleep around 6 p.m., whether it’s winter or summer, and there isn’t any long twilight either. In Germany now, it’s light enough until almost 10 p.m.
  21. Sometimes, I still dream in Spanish. I hope I won’t lose the language too quickly.
  22. And, my dear European friends, what is with that deplorable custom of going out without a hat?10d3b5995f0d1fa59a50ac49d8607ffdIn South America, even the children have more style.
  23. And now I have to plan my birthday trip to a yet undetermined location.

(Hier geht es zur deutschen Fassung.)

Posted in Europe, Germany, Life, Portugal, Travel | 22 Comments

UK election results 2017

The United Kingdom may descend into political chaos, but it will do so with style and in a calm and dignified manner.

You can say about the UK what you want, but Britons can carry off things that would look silly everywhere else.

In Britain, nobody would ever think of excluding you from a public debate just because you call yourself Lord Buckethead, dress accordingly and claim to be an intergalactic space lord.

But I wonder why Elmo only got 3 votes.

Posted in Politics, UK | 3 Comments

D-Day Movie Recommendations

Always on 6 June, I have a feeling of gratitude to the more than 160,000 Allied troops that landed in Normandy on 6 June 1944 (D-Day) and marked the beginning of the second phase of the liberation of Europe (after the landing in Sicily on 10 July 1943). As a German, I still find it embarrassing that my grandparents could not get rid of the Nazi tyranny themselves, but that soldiers from around the world had to muster their courage and many of them had to sacrifice their lives to allow my parents’ generation to grow up in a free, liberal and democratic Germany.

If you wish to commemorate this day, I recommend to find a veteran of World War II and celebrate with him or her. In the absence of such a veteran, you may at least want to watch a movie about D-Day. Here are my top three recommendations.

The classic: The Longest Day

The Longest Day from 1962 is the classic movie about D-Day, recounting the military action on both sides hour by hour. It is a massive production with an enormous line-up of stars.

Even though the film won several Oscars, by today’s standards the black and white The Longest Day is far less impressive. Because original colour footage of the landing in Normandy has been discovered in the meantime, I would actually recommend to go for that if you want to get a realistic impression.

The fictional: Saving Private Ryan

A much more harrowing account than in The Longest Day is given in the opening landing scene of Saving Private Ryan, directed by Steven Spielberg.

Watching this opening scene is an exhausting, sickening, physical experience. I still remember that I saw it in its opening week at a cinema in New York and I had to fight with the girl who had accompanied me because she wanted to leave the cinema in the first 10 minutes into the movie. I myself was happy that I hadn’t had dinner yet.

Steven Spielberg made a very intense movie about D-Day. The colours that he used create the impression of watching an account filmed in 1944. The brutality of war displayed in this film makes it even harder to watch classics like The Longest Day with the same eyes. The latter seems like a modern version of a Western film, a sanitized depiction of real events.

The only weakness of Saving Private Ryan is its story. Private Ryan has lost three brothers in other battles of World War II and he is the only remaining son of his family. The US War Department decides to send a rescue mission to France to get him home before he will be killed.

The real deal: Band of Brothers

If you are looking for a good story, the director and the star of Saving Private Ryan, Steven Spielberg and Tom Hanks, have teamed up to produce the ultimate movie about World War II with great characters, a great script and in the same old-style cinematography as Saving Private Ryan.

However, you will need a bit of time, as Band of Brothers was produced as a TV series of almost 12 hours. It is actually not only about D-Day, but follows one company of a US Parachute Infantry Regiment from their basic training in the USA, to the preparation for the landing in France, to D-Day, the liberation of Europe, including the most moving part about the liberation of a concentration camp until the end of World War II in the Bavarian Alps.

Because of the time available, Band of Brothers can develop the characters with much more depth than the other films. The series covers a time span of two years, with highs and lows in the Allied war efforts, with victories and retreats, with summer lulls and fierce winter battles. What I especially liked about Band of Brothers is that it takes the time to depict some battles in such a detail that one learns about the strategy and the tactics used. Very useful for some of us!

Recommendation:

If I had to pick one of the above, I would not hesitate to choose Band of Brothers over the other two. If you have already seen all of the above, I recommend some alternative history with Inglourious Basterds.

Posted in Cinema, History, Military, World War II | Tagged , | 14 Comments

Random Thoughts (14)

  1. If I am ever on a quiz show, my telephone joker will be the dude who wrote Wikipedia.
  2. Suki Kim has done impressive undercover reporting in North Korea, fooling both her employer, by pretending that she was a devout Christian, and of course the North Korean government.
  3. The resulting book is Without you, there is no us: my secret life teaching the sons of North Korea’s elite
  4. If I had listened to all the well-meaning advice I ever got, I would lead a boring life.
  5. “Oh, your Spanish is very good,” people all over Latin America tell me. I thought it was a personal compliment until I realized that my Bolivian accent makes me sound more refined.
  6. After my trip in South America, I have an unused but not generally useless package of anti-malaria medicine to give away.
  7. On the other hand, thanks to climate change, malaria flies will soon badger us in Europe.
  8. In the 18th century, Catholic clergy in Mexico tried to christianize the Nahuatl god Quetzalcoatl by arguing that he was in reality the apostle St Thomas, who had come to the New World before the Spanish to deliver the word of God to the Indians.
  9. Colombia has neo-Nazis, too. 
  10. These cyber attacks can be really bad. I wonder when we will return to analogue record keeping.
  11. Superstition brings bad luck.
  12. Whenever someone talks of bitcoin and blockchain, I just hear “bla bla bullshit bla bla”.
  13. Foucault’s Pendulum reads like a satire of The Da Vinci Code, only that the former was written before the latter.
  14. Thanks to Silke Wahle for sending me Timothy Snyder’s On Tyranny – Twenty Lessons from the Twentieth Century.
  15. In all of Saudi Arabia, there is only one cinema.
  16. The scary vision of all-encompassing social scores is becoming reality in China.
  17. Nobody is normal.

 

Posted in Bolivia, Books, China, Colombia, Economics, Language, Life, Mexico, North Korea, Religion, Saudi Arabia, Technology, Travel, UK | Tagged , , , , , | 19 Comments

The Port of Gorey

Gorey port lamp(The photo was taken at Gorey on Jersey.)

Posted in Jersey, Photography, Travel, UK | Tagged | 12 Comments

Lynching in Bolivia

In many places in Bolivia, I saw life-size dolls dangling from lamp posts, power poles, walls and even next to the church. I was unable to figure out what they were supposed to represent.

Puppe1Puppe2Puppe3Puppe4Puppe5

When I asked about it, I always received evasive replies referring to “custom” or limited to explanations that explain absolutely nothing, like “that’s what people do around here”. At first, I thought my Spanish was too bad to understand, but over time it became obvious that nobody wanted to talk about it. Until I met a girl in La Paz who explained quite openly, while we were walking around El Alto, that the dolls serve as a warning: “In this part of town, we’ll hang you if we catch you stealing.”

Lynching.

And these are no empty threats. Take this woman and her two children for example. They were accused of stealing a car and tied to a mahogany tree that houses nests of the red fire ant. The woman died from ant bites. The children were rescued by police.

ameise

As a lawyer, I am rather skeptical towards these practices, for how is the mob supposed to evaluate evidence and mitigating circumstances? How to guarantee a fair trial? How to determine adequate punishment? I can also imagine that lynching disadvantages the poor, the less educated or the mentally ill even more than the state justice system. As we say in Bolivia:

Justice is like a snake. Its bite is harder on those who have to walk barefoot.

And sometimes, lynching may simply be the fastest way to get rid of a member of the community who is annoying or disliked.

According to the ombudsmann, there were 41 cases of lynching in 2014, of which 13 resulted in a death. But I doubt that the ombudsman learns of everything going on in the country.

(Zur deutschen Fassung dieses Artikels.)

Posted in Bolivia, Law, Photography, Travel | Tagged | 11 Comments

Book Markets in the Middle East

In Iraq, booksellers leave the books at the side of the road overnight, thinking: “Readers don’t steal, and thieves don’t read.”

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That reminds me of an episode during my first visit to Iran.

In a used-book shop, I found so many interesting books in English and German that the owner carefully asked me after a while if I needed more time. “Why?” I was wondering. “Oh, it’s just that I would like to go to lunch soon,” he explained. No problem. I would come back in an hour, I said. “No, no, you don’t have to leave,” he replied. “If you can still spend half an hour here, I will quickly go to lunch and you can stay here in the meantime.” So he left his store to a complete stranger.

At the book markets near the University of Tehran, I learned that the most interesting and the most foreign-language books can be found in the most hidden shops. After entering a run-down building, going to the second courtyard, walking up to the fourth floor and then crossing through some other shops until you reach the last room, you find the place where the literature from the time before the Islamic Revolution in 1979 is being kept.

In a shop for law books, I met an Iranian lawyer who asked me where I was from. “From Germany.” “Oh, Germany! I love three things about Germany: Andreas Brehme, the Frankfurter Schule and Hugo Grotius.“ Andreas Brehme had already retired by that time and Hugo Grotius was actually Dutch, but still, I found it an impressive line-up. Usually, people only think of Hitler and Mercedes-Benz when I disclose my country of origin.

(Thanks to Alaa Sattar for the photo of Houwaish market in Najaf in Iraq. – Hier geht es zur deutschen Fassung.)

Posted in Books, Iran, Travel | Tagged , | 7 Comments

“Death in Venice”

… and there goes Gustav von Aschenbach:

Death in Venice is not my favorite book by Thomas Mann, but he is one of my most favorite authors.

I have met a few people who have dismissed Thomas Mann as a writer after reading “Death in Venice”. In doing so, they commit the literary mistake of their lifetime. Try “Confessions of Felix Krull, Confidence Man” for a light, entertaining read or “Buddenbrooks” for a family saga. If you are up for more of a challenge – and a treat – , read “The Magic Mountain” or “Doctor Faustus” if you are interested in music.

(C) for the photo: Andreas Moser, in Venice in January 2012

Posted in Books, Italy, Photography | Tagged , | 1 Comment

The advice Trump got from Abbas

wie-kann-der-friedensschluss

Abbas:  Hey, Mr President, you know when I had my last election?

Trump:  Um, um, I am not so good with history. I’ll have to ask Stephen.

Abbas:  I’ll tell you. I was elected in 2005.

Trump:  And you’re still in office now?

Abbas:  Obviously.

Trump:  Wow, that’s a loooong term, that’s yuuuuge. That’s like, um, um, a lot of years definitely.

Abbas:  That’s 12 years – without another election! But you know what’s the best thing about it?

Trump:  No.

Abbas:  It’s unconstitutional. My original term was 4 years. Just like yours. *wink, wink*

Trump:  How did you get around that?

Abbas:  I simply cancelled the elections. You have to find some reason, of course, like terrorism or national security or some bla bla. But hey, what can people do? You’re the President!

Trump:  Can you stay for lunch? I’d like you to meet some of my smarter guys and explain to them how you did it. I am really, really interested in this. Bigly.

Links:

Posted in Israel, Politics, USA | Tagged , , , | 5 Comments

Documentary “Cuba – Fatherland or Death”

I have already expressed my surprise about how lightly Cuba gets off in international public opinion. But recently, I have been shocked again by how many people can travel to Cuba for a week or two and describe everything as beautiful, nice, funny, friendly and so on. Are they blind? What’s worse, I think many of these visitors want to be blind. They don’t want to know about censorship, they don’t want to find out about political prisoners, they don’t want to ask why Cubans are fleeing the country.

I am tired of yet more superficial reports and photos of vintage cars (you think people want to hold on to uneconomical gas-guzzlers?), cigars (any cigar smoker can tell you that Cuban cigars are overrated), colorful architecture (beautiful for a film set, but not safe to live in) and all the smiles (Cubans know what tourists want and you don’t want to talk to the families of imprisoned dissidents or people who have to prostitute themselves to survive, who might not smile, do you?).

I’ll rather watch documentaries like this:

Here is an interview with the filmmakers:

(Thanks to Edward Allen for the pointer.)

Posted in Cinema, Cuba, Economics, Politics, Travel | 3 Comments