So, you already got a first impression of the village, the house and the cat. But the surrounding landscape is quite beautiful, too. Here are some views from my first walk.




So, you already got a first impression of the village, the house and the cat. But the surrounding landscape is quite beautiful, too. Here are some views from my first walk.




I had gone out to take photos of the sunset. But when I turned around, I observed something far more rare and spectacular: the rise of the full moon, at exactly the same time as the sun was setting opposite.




I knew it would be getting dark, but I just couldn’t get myself to leave the hilltop from where I was observing this coincidence of celestial movements. And thus, I had to walk back to Venta Micena in the night, with the moon as the only source of light and the church tower as the only orientation point.



Once safely back, walking through the deserted streets of what I always thought of as a deserted village, I realized that I don’t seem to be the only person living here. Because in one other house, the lights were on.

Curious, I went there the next day, but all the window shutters were rolled down, the door boarded up, as if the lights at night had only shone in my mind. Yet, I swear that every night since, I see flickers of candlelight and hear scraps of conversation coming from that mysterious house. Thus far, I haven’t mustered the courage to investigate further.
Robert Harris, an experienced writer of historical thrillers, has taken on the Munich Agreement of 1938, in which Germany and the United Kingdom agreed that Germany could annex parts of Czechoslovakia. At the time, people believed that such a concession, at the expense of Czechoslovakia, which was not a party to the agreement, would prevent another world war. It didn’t. But you already knew that.
And that’s one problem with Munich. For how do you create suspense about a historical event that everyone knows, or of which everyone knows at least the consequences? An author who doesn’t want to wade into “alternative history” would need to find a subplot that is less known.
Harris picks two subplots, one real, one fictional. The Oster Conspiracy, indeed less known, suffers from the same fault as the main plot. We know there was no coup-attempt against Hitler in 1938. (The one you are thinking of now, remembering Valkyrie, was in 1944.)
The fictional subplot about two diplomats, one British, one German, who know each other from Oxford is basically limited to the German’s attempt to pass a document to the British without other Germans noticing. And that, in essence, is the whole book. It’s about people copying papers, transporting papers, sending telegrams and not receiving papers.
And yes, it’s as boring as it sounds.
But even worse than boring, the book is full of clichés. Hitler’s voice is always “like iron”, most Nazis are drunk and “smell of steel, leather and sweat”, and of course the two diplomats once had the same girlfriend whom they will meet again, in a plot twist which is neither plot nor twist, just pointless to the point of annoyance.
Many reviewers have, in the absence of anything else worthy of praise, applauded the meticulous research done by Harris. I couldn’t see it. For someone who writes in the afterword that he has been interested in the Munich Agreement for 30 years and who explicitly thanks his German translator and other experts for their help, the book is still full of mistakes. Hitler’s bodyguard unit was really not called “Liebstandarte”, as there was nothing lovely about them. When allegedly quoting German documents, Harris gets the German date format and place names wrong. Maybe worst of all is Hitler’s girlfriend, who is dubbed “Fräulein Brown” in this book.
If you want to read a really good book by Robert Harris, I recommend An Officer and a Spy about the Dreyfus affair. I am curious to hear how you rate his books. I have also read The Ghost, which I found too obviously anti-Blair, and Fatherland, which I read decades ago. I remember that I liked it, but I was a teenager back then, and I am not sure if I would trust my younger self.
Easy to find.

Because I am here for house sitting, you are probably curious to see the house (although the cat is really more important). It’s a refurbished farmhouse, now quite spacious and luxurious.
The owners were told it’s 100 years old, but then, so allegedly was everything else they inquired about. We agreed on not putting too much credence in the local method to date things. (The region claims to be the place of the first human settlement in Europe.)

The left hand side, the one painted in white, is where I am staying.
The right hand side is a holiday home with space for six people. It’s available on Booking and on AirBnB, if you are interested in a quiet getaway in a beautiful valley. If it will be your first time using AirBnB, you may sign up via this link to receive 25 € in credit. On Booking, you receive 15 € if you sign up via this link.
Please meet Grace, the reason for my stay in Venta Micena.

The family for which I am house sitting has had house sitters before, so the cat is used to the situation and accepted me quickly. Now, she already spends a few hours every day in my lap and demands quite a lot of attention.

I have had to deposit books next to every possible chair, planning for the eventuality of being occupied by the cat for several hours in case I sit down.

Because I don’t expect much to happen during the coming month in Venta Micena, rather than making up a story where there is none, I am going to post a daily photo to document my life here. I guess that’s what people use Instagraph for, but I still don’t have one of those fancy machines that you need for that.
We shall begin with a view of the village itself.


Over the summer, you have already noticed that not much was happening on my blog. The reason was that in July and August, I was living in Vienna, which is, as is generally known and now confirmed by my personal experience, the most livable city in the world. I traveled there with a backpack full of books, notes and good intentions, only to be immediately wooed by the most enchanting city along the Danube. The beautiful weather, the enormous parks, the number of cultural events and many interesting acquaintances didn’t leave me with much time to write. “Who knows if I will ever spend that much time in Vienna again,” I thought and dropped working, writing and studying in favor of daily and, in most cases, aimless strolls.
I have rarely been as happy as during that summer in Vienna. As one lady said, when we were walking through the Hofburg under the full moon: “Vienna makes you fall in love.” Of course, I wanted to inquire whether she only meant the city or me, too, but somehow the conversation quickly returned to the rule of law and Austrian neutrality. Well, another chance gloriously missed.
In any case, after a city so rich in charms, I am looking for a change by moving to a small mountain village. This village is in Andalusia, it’s called Venta Micena, and 42 people are living there, according to the last census, although I honestly doubt whether all of them are still alive. Because when I looked for photos of Venta Micena, I only found these three.
This is the village,

this is the landscape,
and this seems to be the fate of the erstwhile inhabitants.
After receiving a deluge of wishes to visit me in Vienna, I am certain that nobody will want to visit me in Andalusia. And if, I will spot you hours in advance, when your horse will be whirling up dust at the other end of the valley, allowing me enough time to go out and hunt for a steak.
But the readers who were hoping for beautiful photos, or even a postcard, from Andalusia must not despair. Venta Micena obviously doesn’t have an airport, so I will be in Málaga and in Granada for a few days at the beginning and the end of my stay, respectively.

I will leave on Tuesday. Let’s hope that this autumn in Andalusia will extend my summer.
… is autumn, I determined last weekend, as I was plucking apples, pears and plums from the trees lining the path from Amberg to Nürnberg in what seemed to be at least a temporary Cockaigne.

