Romania in the 2015 National Geographic Traveler Photo Contest

One of the 10 best photos in this year’s National Geographic Photo Contest comes from Romania. Shot by Eduard Gutescu, it shows an autumn landscape in the mountains between Bran and Sinaia.

Romania-Land-of-Fairy-Tales-by-Eduard-GutescuIt reminded me of similar autumn weather in which I took photos like this,

frozen grass 1

and of some of the photos taken by my brother when he visited Transylvania in December.DL Piatra CraiuluiYes, it really is that beautiful here! In any season.

Posted in Photography, Romania, Travel | 5 Comments

The Truth about Divorce Statistics

There are plenty of figures, numbers and statistics about marriage and divorce, some of them even more conflicting than an arguing couple.

To know the truth, you only need to know these two statistics about divorce:

  1. The divorce rate would be 100% of marriages if people didn’t sometimes die before they get a chance to file their liberating petition for divorce.
  2. 100% of people who file for divorce regret that they haven’t done so much earlier.

divorce cartoon

(Source: my experience as a lawyer. – Zur deutschen Scheidungsstatistik.)

Posted in Family Law, Law | Tagged , | 8 Comments

“A Spy at the Heart of the Third Reich” by Lucas Delattre

“A Spy at the Heart of the Third Reich” would be one of the best spy novels I have ever read, if only it was a novel. But even better, it’s a true story. It’s a cliché that the best stories are written by life itself. In the case of Fritz Kolbe, World-War-II spy, this is true. Yet, it still requires a good writer to turn it into an exciting book. French journalist Lucas Delattre was evidently the right man for this job.

Fritz KolbeFritz Kolbe was a mid-level bureaucrat in the German Foreign Office in Berlin during World War II. Unlike many better known “resistance fighters” who only turned against the Nazis when they noticed that Germany would lose World War II, Fritz Kolbe was always opposed to Nazism, dictatorship, militarism, nationalism and anti-Semitism. He was one of the few who refused to join the NSDAP, even after being asked to explain himself several times and after he was informed that his steadfast refusal to join the party would damage his career (he was no longer sent on foreign postings). This is yet another example which shows that it was absolutely possible to put up some resistance during the Third Reich, putting those at shame who kept repeating the lame excuse “But what should we have done?” after 1945.

Because his career had been stalled, Fritz Kolbe was limited to a job in the department of the Foreign Office that received dispatches from German embassies around the world, analyzed the foreign press, compiled reports and forwarded them to German government departments. It wasn’t an exciting job, but few jobs provided that amount and level of insight into classified matters. Kolbe decided to keep or make copies of these highly classified documents in case there would ever be a chance to provide them to the Allies.

The chance came when he was asked to deliver documents to the German embassy in Bern, Switzerland. He had a few extra days there and paid a visit to the British embassy, where he was flat-out turned away. He tried the US embassy next. Luckily, there was an agent called Allen Dulles, who would later head the CIA, who trusted his instinct and this German spy who – to the surprise of Dulles and his colleague – did not ask for any money.

Like a spy thriller, the book describes in detail how Kolbe smuggled the paperwork across the border, how he met with the Americans under the cover of darkness and how they debriefed him. Delattre also provides quite some insight into how intelligence information was checked, double-checked, tested and verified before it was used.

Kolbe returned to Bern several times, each time with hundreds of documents and invaluable notes. He provided embassy cables, assessments of the military and political strength of Germany’s allies and most usefully, he made suggestions about where to bomb to hit weapons factories, rocket launchpads, industry, railway junctions. He even provided a detailed map of Hitler’s HQ in Poland which he had drawn on one of his visits there, practically begging the Americans to bomb it. Tragically, a lot of the information got stuck between the US and British intelligence and their different competing branches. Those in London and Washington who had never met Kolbe in person did not believe that someone would turn over that much legitimate information without asking for payment and approached anything Kolbe provided with much suspicion. Valuable time was wasted, possibly prolonging the war.

One interesting fact that I had hitherto not known is that the resistance group around General Beck and Carl Goerdeler had contacted the Americans, asking them for military support during the coup d’etat on 20 July 1944 (they asked particularly for several American airborne divisions to be parachuted into Berlin) and proposed that the Wehrmacht would capitulate on condition that they were allowed to continue fighting against the Soviet Union in the East. In line with the agreement between the Allies, the USA insisted on unconditional surrender.

FritzkolbeFritz Kolbe was eager to do yet more. He was in contact with others opposed to the Nazis and had prepared a “people’s militia” consisting of 30 to 100 men, equipped with bicycles, who would be ready to take over Berlin once the Americans landed. The American spies probably deemed this naive and dissuaded Kolbe from going further with such plans, telling him that he was far more valuable as a spy. What the Americans never told him, is that he was actually the only spy they had within the Nazi administration in Berlin.

Although the action mostly stops in May 1945 – Kolbe survives the war undetected, despite his relatively open association with opponents of the Nazis and despite having told some of his colleagues about his contact with the Americans -, the book doesn’t stop here. Sadly, the story of Fritz Kolbe in the first years of the Federal Republic of Germany is all too symptomatic of that time. Shunned as a traitor by his former colleagues in the Foreign Office, he is never re-hired, while many erstwhile Nazis are. It’s as if he had been put on a secret black list. His story, his deeds, his courage and his motives only become known to a wider audience long after he died in 1971.

Delattre’s book is excellently told and has a range of interesting notes, sources and thematic bibliography that make you want to continue researching this episode of World War II. – If you like this book, I also recommend “Alone in Berlin” by Hans Fallada and “Beautiful Souls” by Eyal Press.

(This book review was also published by Medium. – Zur deutschen Fassung dieser Buchbesprechung.)

Posted in Books, Germany, History, Holocaust, Military, Politics, USA, World War II | Tagged , , , | 6 Comments

But apart from this minor detail, the NHS is the best health service in the world.

A report by the Commonwealth Fund which compared the health systems of 11 countries gave top marks to Britain’s tax-funded universal National Health Service.

NHS11

If only there wasn’t this tiny detail which dampens the jubilant mood just a bit:

NHS2

Posted in UK | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

This is a Green Car

This car carries the plants around to offset the carbon dioxide that it produces.

(discovered and photographed at Europos Parkas in Lithuania)

Posted in Lithuania, Photography, Technology, Travel | Tagged | 4 Comments

Trailers for James Bond “Spectre”

We still have to wait until 6 November 2015 for the new James Bond film Spectre to be released, but here is a first teaser:

I am not too happy to see the storyline from Skyfall being continued and characters from Casino Royale and Quantum of Solace popping up again. All of the older James Bond films did have minor references to other films, but they were completely comprehensible to a newcomer. With this continued storyline and the overload of references, I fear that people who aren’t huge fans won’t enjoy the film as much. Not everyone can be expected to watch the last three films in one session before going to see Spectre. Also, is Mr White trying to copy my hobo look?

Ever since I saw Inglourious Basterds in 2009, I was hoping for Christoph Waltz to play a villain in a James Bond film, so I am looking forward to that.

The part in the trailer about James Bond’s past and the shot of a “temporary order of guardianship” fills me with dismay. The films used to benefit from James Bond being the guy without an interesting past. I don’t want to hear any more about his parents, his siblings and whether he had a dog or a cat when he was a young boy. I want to see contemporary plots with interesting twists. If it will turn out that James Bond is somehow connected to the villain and this connection dates back to his childhood, I will yawn out loud in the cinema.

The second trailer doesn’t give reason for much hope either.

Plenty of darkness, mindlessly put together action sequences and then again the superfluous personal storyline about the Bond-Oberhauser family. Bond films remind me more and more of the countless Marvel comic adaptations. Where are the cleverness and wit of earlier Bonds? Instead we see a simple-minded James Bond who seems to experience more than just a professional burnout. “Is this really what you want? Living in the shadows? Hunting? Being hunted? Always alone?” one of the Bond women asks. “I don’t stop to think about it,” he replies. We don’t expect MI6 to employ philosophers – although I would be available -, but the savior of the free Western world doesn’t need to be quite so dim-witted.

Finally, the latest trailer:

(Hier gibt es den Trailer und meinen Kommentar auf Deutsch.)

Posted in Cinema | Tagged , , , | 9 Comments

A Party for Bashar al-Assad

Dictator, mass murderer, war criminal. That’s Bashar al-Assad.

In a European capital city, a celebration is held in his honor. That’s freedom of speech. Thus observed by me in Budapest in April 2015, on “Heroes’ Square” fittingly, between the Palace of Art and the Museum of Fine Arts.

Already as I was approaching the square, I was wondering why I heard the sound of happy and Arabic dance music that evening. First I suspected a harmless party, but when I spotted the flags of Venezuela and of Syria, the cake- and juice-enriched activity did seem a bit more suspicious. And indeed: framed photos of Bashar al-Assad had been put up.

AssadFest1AssadFest2

Now, I can comprehend that some Syrians long for the time before the Arab Spring when they weren’t yet bombed by their own government or beheaded by terrorists. It’s natural that during a civil war, the preceding time of stability is being glorified, even if it was sustained by repressive means. But this view overlooks cause and effect as well as possible alternative courses of events. If Bashar al-Assad hadn’t gunned down the peaceful protests in 2011, civil war might never have broken out. If the world was just a bit more interested and inclined to get involved, the civil war might even have been stopped or at least contained.

But even if one wants to have such sympathy for the adherents of the “everything used to be better in the old days”-theory, this does not explain why Dr Dr al-Assad (one Dr for the ophthalmologist, one for the certified dictator) should be celebrated like a hero.

There were a few young men among the fans of the slaughterer of Syria, in perfect age for military service. Just odd that they aren’t in Syria to support their idol in murdering other Syrians. Well, in some ways life in free and relatively liberal Europe does have its advantages, I guess.

(Zur deutschen Fassung dieses Beitrags.)

Posted in Hungary, Military, Photography, Politics, Syria, Travel | Tagged | 1 Comment

Easily confused (49) Minions

Minions:

minions

Rominions:

rominions

Thanks to Allexinno & Starchild for the photo and to Joseph Ricafort for the idea!

Posted in Cinema, Romania | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Cabbage Car

“I don’t need a pick-up truck.”Kohl-AutoPhotographed in Kitskany, Transnistria.

Posted in Photography, Transnistria, Travel | Tagged | 1 Comment

Patriotism in Venice

The Italian flag, plus some other stylish textiles, in Venice:

Posted in Italy, Photography, Travel | Tagged | 4 Comments