Food in Cochabamba

Some of you have been asking what we eat in Bolivia. A lot and rather unhealthy, I always answered.

Now there is a video to illustrate what I meant with that. Cochabamba is known as the culinary capital of Bolivia, but it may well also be the capital of diabetes.

A lunch menu at a Bolivian restaurant (soup, main course, maybe a dessert, and a bottle of cola) costs around 3 dollars. No surprise then that I hardly cook myself. Obviously there are restaurants catering to tourists (or snobs) which are more expensive, but I prefer the small restaurants that suddenly open up everywhere around lunch time. Sometimes it is only someone’s garden or garage with a few tables and plastic chairs. There will be a sign in the street advertising the menu of the day. You can’t get anything else, there will be the same food on every table.

At night, chefs are popping up at every street corner, putting up a grill or a gas stove or pulling a huge pot of soup on four wheels behind tem. Each of them too has only one specialty, with some of these small businesses preparing and selling it at the same street corner for years. For example, close to my home, at the corner of America/Bolivar, you can get trancapechos (you see them from minute 2:45 in the video on) as long as they have enough bread, burgers and eggs, sometimes until after midnight. Because there is only one dish, you simply order by mentioning the number of huge burgers which you want. Uno is absolutely sufficient, and for 1.50 dollars you will get full. I often pass by that stall after my late-night run in Abraham-Lincoln-Park.

Trancapecho street

Interestingly to someone from Germany, Paulaner beer is very popular. There is even a “Paulaner Fan-Shop“ in Cochabamba, where you can buy beer mugs. For those who prefer the beer from northern Germany, there is “Bierhaus Dortmund“.

Between all the unhealthy options, I have finally found one vegetarian restaurant.

(Zur deutschen Fassung dieses Artikels.)

Posted in Bolivia, Food, Travel, Video Blog | Tagged | 17 Comments

Video Blog: Victory Party of the NO campaign in Bolivia

Going for a walk in Cochabamba last night, a few hours after the polls had closed, I came past Plaza de las Banderas where a small group of supporters of the NO campaign, the campaign against granting President Evo Morales of Bolivia the possibility to run for another term, had gathered. They were only a handful and didn’t look too happy. All day there had been reports and indications of electoral fraud. The optimism of the campaign had evaporated. Everyone knew all along that the result would be close, but now the tension was enormous.

NO small group.JPG

I was hungry and kept walking down Avenida Ballivian until I found a chicken restaurant. They had the news on TV and just as I entered, the first prediction was shown: The NO campaign would win by 51%. The eyes of the patrons were glued to the TV, but showed no joy. Either these were mainly SI supporters, or they couldn’t believe it yet.

But for me, this was enough to skip dinner and race back to Plaza de las Banderas. Slowly, more and more people with NO-flags and with red T-shirts arrived, although it was still a small crowd.

The passing cars began to honk in support, their drivers raising their fists through the windows. And then, it was like everyone who hat voted NO had heard the good news and was rushing to the square  in the north of Cochabamba. The roads which had been pleasantly empty all day (motorized traffic is banned on election days in Bolivia) filled with motorbikes, cars and trucks from one minute to the next, with red flags waving and music blasting from everywhere. It was like a second carnival.

NO truck.JPG

The small group had swollen into a jubilant crowd, and I found myself in the midst of it.

NO child.JPGNO LeyesNO back 1No back 2

(Hier könnt Ihr diesen Bericht auf Deutsch lesen.)

Posted in Bolivia, Photography, Politics, Travel, Video Blog | Tagged | 2 Comments

Evo, don’t take it personally.

Photographed in Cochabamba on the day of the referendum, in which a majority of Bolivians rejected a constitutional amendment that would have allowed President Evo Morales to run for a fourth consecutive term: “Evo, I love you. Forgive me.”

Evo te amo.JPG

Posted in Bolivia, Language, Photography, Politics | Tagged , | 5 Comments

Who predicted the Result of the Referendum in Bolivia?

I did:

prediction Twitter

And the result:

resultado 22Feb2016

 

Posted in Bolivia, Politics | 5 Comments

The Referendum in Bolivia is actually not important

In less than two hours, the polls will close in Bolivia. Soon thereafter, the result of the constitutional referendum will be announced. Half of the country will be happy, half of the country will be sad. Some people will dance, others will cry. Some will light fireworks, others will jump from the balcony.

My dear Bolivian friends, it’s really not worth it! Don’t get hung up by the result, and even more so, don’t hang yourself because of it. Don’t let it strain friendships or relationships.

no-si-kissing

  • If you are on the SI side and the NO side won, don’t worry: MAS will still be able to put up another candidate at the next election who will propose to continue the politics of Evo Morales. The agenda of MAS does not depend on one person. It’s a large party and they have plenty of people. If not, you can run for President yourself.
  • If you are on the NO side and the SI side won, don’t worry: It doesn’t mean that President Morales will get another term, it just means there will be another election with him as a candidate. But there are plenty of able opposition parties and candidates who can run again him and by no means is the next election a sure thing for anyone. If necessary, you can run for President yourself.

Now let’s all be happy that the alcohol ban will be lifted on Monday.

And if there are reports of election fraud, then both the SI and the NO voters should unite, demand an investigation and prosecution if warranted. Because anyone who commits fraud in an election or a referendum displays blatant disrespect to voters from both sides. The integrity of democracy is far more important than the outcome of the referendum, particularly on such a relatively minor question. The Bolivians who gave their lives and their liberty in the fight for democracy didn’t fight for the question of two or three or four presidential terms. They fought for free and fair elections, regardless of the outcome. Let’s not forget this priority.

Posted in Bolivia, Philosophy, Politics | Tagged | 4 Comments

My Shadow is a Cowboy

The great thing about a hat is that your own shadow suddenly looks much cooler.

shadow.JPG

(Photographed on the walk from San José de Chiquitos to Santa Cruz la Vieja in Bolivia. But that doesn’t really matter for this photo, does it?)

Posted in Bolivia, Photography, Travel | Tagged , | 3 Comments

Video Blog: NO campaign in Santa Cruz

It was Sunday evening, I was sitting in the central square of Santa Cruz in Bolivia, resting from the half marathon which I had run earlier that day. It was Valentine’s Day and of course I was by myself, when I suddenly heard the sound that I like so much, that gets my pulse racing, makes me grab my camera and run towards it, as tired as my legs may have been after running 21 km in the morning. That sound is the sound of political protest.

I caught the beginning of a walk by the NO campaign, the campaign against changing the Bolivian constitution, against allowing President Morales to run for a fourth term in office. Even if you are not too interested in politics, these videos give you a nice glimpse of the area around the cathedral in Santa Cruz.

The crowd grew by the minute. People who had sat in the park playing with their children, eating ice cream or staring at their phones (the big difference between Cochabamba and Santa Cruz: people sitting in a park in Cochabamba eat, people sitting in a park in Santa Cruz stare at their phones) had gotten up to join the parade.

No1No3No2

Bystanders were clapping in support. None of the cars which were forced to wait because of the march honked in frustration. Even this child showed his support.

NO kid.JPG

And like any good political protest, it ended with the singing of the national anthem.

(Hier gibt es diesen Bericht auf Deutsch.)

Posted in Bolivia, Photography, Politics, Travel, Video Blog | Tagged , | 2 Comments

Free T-Shirts vs Self-Made Costumes

Handing out free T-shirts is one way of getting people to campaign for you. So done by the campaign for the constitutional amendment which would allow the renewed re-election of President Morales in Bolivia.

This was outside the bus/train station in Santa Cruz. Some guys showed up with a huge supply of T-shirts and immediately a long line formed.

SI t-shirts.JPG

That’s one way to run campaigns. But my impression was that the people of the “SI” campaign were often rather lackluster, just standing around in groups and talking among themselves.

The “NO” campaigns I have seen in Cochabamba and Santa Cruz seemed to be more grass-root organized, more energetic, with more authentic conviction (and sometimes anger). Take this father and his son, who asked me to take their photo at the rally of the “NO” campaign in Santa Cruz, and their self-made costume for example (although the “NO” campaign also offered pre-printed T-shirts of course).

NO father son

Posted in Bolivia, Photography, Politics, Travel | Tagged | 1 Comment

Only vote while sober, please!

When I stepped into the convenience store on Avenida America in Cochabamba, I noticed something strange. A large section of the shop was cordoned off with black linen. It was the alcohol section.

no alcohol 1

“What happened?” I asked the shopkeeper, “Did you become Mormon or 7th Day Adventist?” “No,” he smiled, “it’s the law. We are not allowed to sell alcohol before and during the referendum,” referring to the vote on 21 February 2016 about the proposed amendment to the Bolivian constitution which would allow the re-election of the President for another (fourth) term.

And indeed, an ordnance passed by the Bolivian Election Commission stipulates the ban of sale and consumption of alcohol for 48 hours before an election or a referendum. It also bans the carrying of sharp or blunt objects, public performances and any motorized transport on election day.

no alcohol 2.JPG

The purpose of the alcohol ban is for voters to have a clear mind when they make a decision on Sunday. Creative hot-shot lawyer as I am, I tried to argue that I am exempt from the ban because as a foreigner, I cannot vote anyway. Thus, it doesn’t matter how clouded my judgement will be tomorrow. The law doesn’t provide for such an exemption, but I argued for the necessity of a “reducción teleológica”, a teleological reduction which narrows the applicability of a law beyond its wording based on its intent, and was proud that I made up the right legal terminology in Spanish simply by guessing that it would be similar to the English or German one.

Needless to say, my argument did not prevail and I did not get any whiskey. Probably the shop clerk was right in rejecting it, because another purpose of the alcohol ban might be to avoid the anger and violence which can result from the combination of losing an election and getting drunk. And in such brawls, even I as a foreigner could be – and given my history of mingling in other country’s affairs probably would be – involved. Although Bolivia has been a relatively stable democracy since the 1980s, in light of the turbulent history before, with dozens of revolutions, military coups, counter-coups, maybe it’s better to be safe than sorry. On the other hand, banning public gatherings and public transport just makes a military coup easier because it’s harder for any opposition to organize. Anyway, let’s not cry wolf and let’s all get along regardless of whether we vote SI or NO tomorrow. Then we’ll also be able to drink again Monday night.

I haven’t been able to find out if the sale of coca leaves goes up during the alcohol ban.

This should also provide for interesting data on whether there will be fewer or more accidents (obviously only on Saturday and Monday when driving is not banned), fewer or more crimes, fewer or more hospital admissions than on comparable weekends.

(Hier gibt es diesen Artikel auf Deutsch.)

Posted in Bolivia, Law, Photography, Politics, Travel | Tagged , , | 7 Comments

Video Blog: Cochabamba in Bolivia

This is Cochabamba, the city which is now my home in Bolivia:

And yes, the animals at the 3:22 minute mark are llama fetuses. They are sold at the “Witches’ Market” and you are supposed to bury one of them in the ground when building a new house. It will protect the domicile. If you are building a house soon, I can mail you one.

Despite this somewhat spooky corner of the “La Cancha” market, the city is very friendly, with many parks and an agreeable mix of tradition and modernity. It’s not a museum town for tourists, but a city in which people really live. But despite its size (650,000 people), I never get the feeling of living in a city which is too large or too hectic.

panorama snow lady with hat.JPG

(Zur deutschen Version.)

Posted in Bolivia, Photography, Travel, Video Blog | Tagged | 7 Comments