Did you notice the Irony? (11) Climate Refugees

Did you ever notice the irony that lies in

  • us flying to the Maldives, the Seychelles, to Easter Island and everywhere else,
  • thus destroying the world’s climate with our CO2 emissions,
  • but when climate refugees try to come to Europe because their islands are being consumed by rising sea levels or because their land is being turned into desert by the increasing heat, then we turn them away?
"We sure hope you did enjoy your holidays on our islands - when they were still there."

“We sure hope you did enjoy your holidays on our islands – when they were still there.”

Posted in Human Rights, Philosophy, Politics, Travel | Tagged , | 3 Comments

Sad Things (9) BND palm tree

One of two alibi trees in front of an ugly concrete block which will house the BND, Germany’s Intelligence Service, in Berlin.

BND-Zentrale-Palme

This one tree is even worse than if there was no tree at all. It’s like rubbing it in. The loneliness of the tree will resonate with many of the bureaucrats editing or summarizing reports inside that building. This lonely tree symbolizes everything that you are missing out by working in a grey office block.

To make matters worse, the architect chose a palm tree – a tree which doesn’t naturally grow in Berlin. If BND officers already envy those stationed in Beirut, Bogotá or Bari, looking at a palm tree won’t help. But then, the palm tree isn’t even real. It is made out of metal, at a cost of more than 300,000 Euros for two trees. Even Curveball didn’t charge that much.

If the ugliness of the building, the cost overrun and the fact that the construction plans were stolen aren’t enough evidence of the incompetency of everyone involved yet, then this tree will be enough to tell you to stay clear of that particular architect – and maybe of the BND altogether.

I am so glad I am working in the field and can enjoy real palm trees. Lots of them.

Posted in Germany | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Utility Outage

This week,

  • I was without electricity (and thus without internet) for half a day after a thunderstorm,
  • I ran out of gas in the kitchen,
  • and I haven’t had water all weekend after the pipe leading to my neighborhood burst.

After this experience, I can recommend unequivocally: if you ever have to choose between these three utilities, try not to lose the water. Without electricity, you can’t work, but you can still read (during sunlight hours), you can go for a run and it can even be nice to have an excuse to postpone work. Without gas, you can’t cook, but there are worse things than eating out. But without water, life is messy and dirty, in the literal sense.

Luckily, my very helpful landlord came by and arranged for me to pick up water from a friend’s house close by (but apparently served by a different water pipe). So I am carrying buckets full of water across the street to be prepared for my next use of the toilet.

water-buckets-on-headMillions, if not billions, of people have to do this every day. Not just once, but for all of their lives. They have to walk much farther distances. In areas more dangerous. And their water doesn’t always come out of a tap, but it’s a filthy brew.

Maybe providing access to clean water to everyone should be a priority. I bet that a lot of people could be helped with all the money you put into your I-phones, space programs and Google Glass.

Posted in Economics, Human Rights, Life, Technology | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Moving to Bari

After six months in Sicily, I have come to love this island, which surprised me with its diversity, fascinating landscapes, beautiful cities, interesting islands, great food and genuinely friendly and humorous people. It became home immediately.

But it’s time to move on.

Bari on Italy mapI will stay in Italy until the rest of the year, but transfer to the mainland (or “the continent” as some people here say). Next week, I will move to Bari, capital city of Apulia.

I have never been to this part of Italy, and I am looking forward to exploring the south, the regions of Apulia, Basilicata, Calabria, Campania and the Adriatic coast. Bari also has a busy ferry port with connections to the Balkans and I hope I will find the time for my first visits to Montenegro and Albania.

Why did I pick Bari?

One simple reason. I came across this video and I was impressed how happy the city and its people are:

“Wow, living with people like that, I’ll be in a good mood all day every day,” I thought and made the decision. I am quick decider. – Only later did I find out that this “We are happy” song has been turned into videos from almost any city on earth. Well, I’ve never been on top of the music and entertainment news.

Since then I have been warned by some Italians about the terrible accent spoken in Bari. Some have even called it “the ugliest city in Italy”. We will see. I am curious and excited. Stay on board to follow my journey!

UPDATE:

I have arrived in Bari and it’s a beautiful city! I live very close to the waterfront and to the beautiful old city with magnificent churches and a castle. There are plenty of parks around and the whole city is very lively and friendly. – No idea where these negative remarks came from.

About the accent: sometimes I am not sure if people speak barese or Arabic.

(Diesen Beitrag auf Deutsch lesen.)

Posted in Apulia, Italy, Music, Sicily, Travel | Tagged , , | 14 Comments

There are more important things than territorial integrity

Democracy and self-determination are great. But nobody should believe that a referendum hastily pulled out of a hat, with limited choices and without a proper prior public debate about the question posed at the polls is a good example of direct democracy. Likewise, self-determination of a people is not enhanced if such a referendum is carried out while under the military occupation of a neighboring country not known for its love of democracy.

The referendum in Crimea with an almost North-Korean outcome was a worse joke than the ones told by the Vodka-infused sailors in the bars in Sevastopol. Only one guy is laughing about this joke – Putin -, but the rest of the world has to decide how to react.

Western responses to the crisis in Crimea quickly focus on the aspect of territorial integrity. This monster of a word means that a country must not be torn apart, filleted, cut up or otherwise divided. States are no pizza which you can divide randomly. By using the argument of Ukraine’s territorial integrity, the West resorts to the weakest argument of all.

Why should it be an international principle of high regard that a country’s territory must neither shrink nor grow? I find it much more important how people in that territory fare: if there is freedom, democracy, rule of law and prosperity, it should be of secondary concern what kind of flag is flown in front of city hall. Within the European Union, I thought we have come to understand that, which is why nobody is fighting over Alsace-Lorraine or Trieste anymore.

"I am sorry. I didn't want this to cause a war."

“I am sorry. I didn’t want this to cause a war.”

I also wish that Crimea would have remain with Ukraine. But not because this is the current (or by now previous – and if you know the history: rather arbitrary) border, but because I believe that it would be better for the inhabitants of the peninsula to live in a country with a democratic, European perspective than in an authoritarian Mafia-state. (Additionally, but that is a rather egoistic motive, I cherish the existence of a Russian-speaking territory in a country for which I don’t need a visa, because I’d like to go there for a few months to learn Russian.)

From German history, we know that a country does not necessarily become a worse country by shrinking in size. And since 1990 we know that divisions of territory are not irreversible. “Size doesn’t matter,” as we men assert in other contexts.

One doesn’t have to go back more than 25 years to realize that some of the current EU member states were born out of a “violation of territorial integrity” of states which still existed then. When Slovenia declared its independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, although it had never before existed as an independent state, we did not insist on the territorial integrity of Yugoslavia. Nor did we insist on the territorial integrity of the Soviet Union when Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia became independent.

At any time of world history, borders have been moved back and forth. Why should this process be completed once and for all just before 16 March 2014?

It seems to me that this insisting on transfixed borders comes from a wish to keep the world manageable. But it isn’t. This simplification is not only intellectually unsatisfying, but it also commits the consequential mistake of valuing a line on a map higher than human life. This urge to maintain old borders has already led to a number of problems. A few recent examples:

  • In Bosnia-Herzegovina the Dayton Accord insisted on keeping the borders of this artificial former Yugoslav state intact, although some regions would much rather have become parts of Serbia or Croatia. The result is an inconsistent, almost ungovernable state with a multitude of bloated local, regional, state and international levels of administration.
  • The same mistake was made in Kosovo. A majority of countries recognized independent Kosovo in the borders of the erstwhile Yugoslav province, instead of limiting this to the 90% of the territory which was inhabited by Albanians and leaving the northern part with its almost exclusively Serb population to remain or become part of Serbia. Today, nobody in Pristina would care two hoots about North Mitrovica, and the relationship between Serbia and Kosovo could be much more cooperative.
  • For more than 10 years, we have been insisting on treating Afghanistan as a unified entity although most of the population there doesn’t find that particularly important. If ISAF had focused on the parts of Afghanistan which could have been pacified and stabilized, the Taliban might still be hanging around in Kandahar, but by focusing our resources we could have helped to build up society with a real chance of survival around Kabul and Herat for example. Possibly. The way we did it, we half-heartedly bustled around all of Afghanistan, we leave this year, and the whole country will go down the drain after. But at least we don’t need to memorize any new borders.
  • In the north of Somalia, the two relatively stable regions of Somaliland and Puntland have declared their independence. The international community however hardly recognizes them and insists on treating all of Somalia as a failed state.

Returning to Crimea, the problem is not where exactly the border between Ukraine and Russia runs. The real problem is the existence of a large, aggressive, power-hungry, authoritarian, corrupt and uncooperative state that looks down on human rights. This problems existed before the crisis in Crimea and it won’t be solved by freezing bank accounts and issuing travel bans. Even the containment of such a problem requires an effort that we haven’t mounted since the Cold War. If we are not ready to master this task, we might as well call the Eastern European states which are not NATO members and tell them “we are sorry”. By way of precaution, we can already issue such a call to Moldova where Transnistria and Gagauzia are the next trouble spots.

(Dieser Artikel ist auch auf Deutsch erschienen.)

Posted in Afghanistan, Cold War, Estonia, Europe, Germany, History, Human Rights, Latvia, Law, Lithuania, Military, Politics, Russia, Ukraine | Tagged , , , | 18 Comments

I know what happened to Flight MH370

The plot was already outlined years ago in the Tintin book Flight 714.

Flight_714_Tintin

I wouldn’t be surprised if MH370 could be found on some volcanic island to which it has been abducted. (My recent visits to two volcanic islands have nothing to do with this, however.)

Flight-714-Tintin-landing

Posted in Books, Travel | Tagged , , | 12 Comments

Your favourite blogger at work on Stromboli

In order to find the best stories and photos for this blog, no efforts are too much and no risk is too high. I cross deserts on foot, I spend months on distant islands, I infiltrate Al-Qaeda, I fly into space and I report from civil war zones.

There are no photos of many of these adventures because I usually travel alone. But last week, my father was with me and managed to capture this shot of me working:

Andreas Moser Stromboli

This was on Stromboli, an active volcano. I stand on the edge of the crater which keeps disseminating poisonous gases. Despite the mask, my lungs are burning. The pain signals me that they will soon stop functioning if I will stay that close to the smoke-filled abyss for a few more minutes. Eruptions are thundering deep down. Rocks and lava are thrown hundreds of meters into the air.

And what am I doing, eye in eye with these forces of nature? I am taking notes. For you, my esteemed readers! It’s a tough job, but somebody has to do it.

Here is the full report of the ascent of Stromboli.

(Zur deutschsprachigen Version.)

Posted in Italy, Photography, Sicily, Travel | Tagged | 5 Comments

Three types of dwellings

Walking in Il-Majjistral Nature Reserve on Malta, I saw this composition of a little hut, modern houses in the background and church towers on the other side.

houses churches hutI couldn’t get Popeye Village into the shot, but that would have been an even stronger contrast.

Posted in Malta, Photography, Travel | Tagged | 4 Comments

Sheep Island

These sheep even have their own island.

sheep island(Photograph taken on the South Downs Way in England.)

Posted in Photography, Travel, UK | Tagged , | 3 Comments

Big Lemon

When I was in Palermo for New Year’s Eve, I saw this stall with lemons, some of them the size of an American football. They were sold as a snack and I tried one of course. It’s less sour than a lemon, but still very refreshing. It’s far less juicy and consists almost exclusively of white pith.

big lemonThe vendor told me that they are actually not lemons, but that they have a different name. But I forgot it, of course. I am really not good in memorizing food.

Posted in Food, Italy, Photography, Sicily, Travel | Tagged , | 3 Comments