The Vagabond

One of the best things about my childhood was that I always had enough books to read.

My heroes were never the princes or princesses, sorcerers or knights, firemen or astronauts. Nor was I impressed by cowboys, bandits or sheriffs.

There were three professions with whom I identified: vagabonds (or hobos or vagrants), journalists and private investigators. In that order.

Janosch trip to PanamaThe first hobos with whom I made my literary acquaintance were probably the tiger and the bear in The Trip to Panama by Janosch, who decide to walk all the way to Panama (it is not clear from where, but as a child I naturally assumed that they were also in Germany, where I was at the time). It doesn’t matter that they will never reach Panama.

Later came the adventure novels by Karl May, not too well known in the English-speaking world I believe. The vagrant who is here today and somewhere else tomorrow and who carries all of his belongings in a bindle thrown over his shoulder always struck a more sympathetic chord with me than all the boastful heroes. He epitomized freedom. Then there were the vagabonds in the novels by Charles Dickens and Jack London.

The Good-For-Nothing by Joseph von Eichendorff may be romantic kitsch, but the demonstrative carelessness, which ultimately leads to success, is a modus operandi which I have tried to make my own.

Only later did I find out that such a vagabondish lifestyle is a real option, e.g. by reading Into the Wild by Jon Krakauer or the three volumes by Patrick Leigh Fermor about his multi-year hike through Europe. “What a life!” I proclaim with admiration when I read biographies like these, before I set out to make more travel plans of my own.

The dreams you had as a child are the best guidance in adult life.

I made it.

I made it.

(Zur deutschen Fassung.)

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Football World Cup reveals hidden poverty

Poverty in Brazil won’t strike anyone as a surprise, but nobody will care as long as there is a Football World Cup going on. Also, this poverty is kind of compensated by the 2022 World Cup which will be held in Qatar, where there is no poverty at all – at least on statistical average.

The huge surprise however is that the World Cup 2014 also lifts the veil that usually covers up poverty in Germany. Since the time of the “economic miracle”, the Federal Republic of Germany has been advertising itself as this constant machine of growth, in which everyone participates equally. This World Cup finally sheds light on the horrible truth.

Millions of Germans still cannot afford their own TV set. For each match, they have to get together in public squares, where some generous patron of the arts has provided a TV set for the impoverished masses.

public viewing WMThey have no protection at all even against the fiercest storms. The issue of poverty turns into a health issue. Many of them will perish after contracting a cold.

Jogi Löw RegenLack of a TV set may be dismissed as a luxury problem, as whining on a high level. But some are hit harder: they don’t even a house which they could build around their TV set.

The city of Berlin alone currently houses thousands of homeless people in emergency shelters in football stadiums.

sofa-WM2014(Zur deutschsprachigen Fassung.)

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The Ruins of Tyndaris

Most of the souvenir and snack shops on the side of the road winding up to Tindari are closed. In Sicily, late April is still off-season. If you own a shop at the place that will be visited both for the ruins of the ancient city of Tyndaris and for the pilgrims’ church, you will have enough business in summer (and on 8 September for the Nativity of Mary) that you don’t need to work at this early time of the year.

walls of Basilica TindariSicily abounds in historical sites, some of which have survived as cities until today, like Syracuse and Taormina. In Tindari however, the current village cannot live up to the size and the importance of ancient Tyndaris by far. Founded in 396 BC by Dionysus I, the city was first Greek and became Roman in 254 BC. The exhibits in the small museum, ranging from busts of Emperor Augustus to locally minted coins, underline the sophistication of the city’s erstwhile civilization.

Although parts of the city disappeared into the sea after a landslide in the 1st century, its original extent can still be recognized today, as can its perfectly rectangular layout. This was no randomly conglomerated settlement. Here, some city planner from antiquity fulfilled his dream, possibly inspired by a chessboard. Little alleys branch off at right angles to the long roads. All building blocks thus encompassed have the same size. One of the two larger streets leads from the theater on one end to the basilica on the other end.

Almost nobody is to be seen on the large excavation site. There are more staff members – probably art historians who would otherwise be unemployed – than visitors. Unlabeled remains of columns and capitals adorn the flower beds in front of the museum, as if there are too many of them anyway.

Theater Tindari

Some of the tiers of the semicircular theater are grown over by yellow flowers. The view extends across the sea to the Aeolian Islands, above which thunderstorm clouds are building up threateningly, like the backdrop to a Greek drama. The silence however is not ruptured by Prometheus or Antigone, but by the Gangnam Style ringtone of an attendant’s mobile phone.

Tindari Aussicht

The former city is an overgrown park now. Comfrey, fennel, cacti, pine and eucalyptus trees grow out of the former living and storage quarters. The Roman road, no longer quite a level plane, wanders off into the nothing.

Straße Tindari

Mosaik Tindari

But the detailed mosaics of the thermal baths have been uncovered. The ruins of the basilica, whose original purpose is not certain, are still imposing.

Basilika Tindari

Behind it, the pilgrims’ church which was only opened in 1979, was built dangerously close to the cliff despite the history of landslides and earthquakes in the region. Somebody must have had a lot of trust in God, the architect or in concrete.

(Zur deutschen Fassung dieses Artikels.)

Posted in History, Italy, Photography, Sicily, Travel | Tagged , | 4 Comments

Off-Season

Nebensaison TindariIf you can get by without being offered useless souvenirs every couple of meters, and if you pack enough books to survive one or two days of rain, then late fall or early spring are the perfect times for travelling to Sicily.

(The photo was taken in March 2014 in Tindari, apparently before the start of the tourist season.)

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Who gave terrorists the idea to attack New York?

In 1973 Palestinian terrorists tried to detonate three car bombs in New York City. Al-Qaeda tried to blow up the World Trade Center, two tunnels, a bridge and the UN Headquarters in 1993 and flew two hijacked planes into the World Trade Center in 2001. In 2009 terrorists tried to blow up two synagogues in New York. In 2010 a car bomb failed to detonate in Times Square. Another terrorist plot in 2011 involved plans to blow up the Empire State Building, a church and a synagogue. And so on.

Why are terrorists so obsessed with New York?

On the Road Jack KerouacCoincidentally, I have discovered who is behind the idea of blowing up New York. And it’s not Al-Qaeda or any other radical group. It’s someone of whom nobody would have assumed any connection to terrorism.

In his book On the Road, Jack Kerouac writes (part 2, chapter 2):

When daybreak came we were zooming through New Jersey with the great cloud of Metropolitan New York rising before us in the snowy distance. Dean had a sweater wrapped around his ears to keep warm. He said we were a band of Arabs coming in to blow up New York.

The scariest thing: On the Road was published in 1957. Eerily prophetic.

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Sad Man

The spokesman for the Iraqi Army has a very fitting name.

Saad MaanAnd his facial expression suits his name.

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Sad Things (11) David Cameron

Being Prime Minister of a quickly disintegrating country which has been a member state of the European Union since 1973, but who still doesn’t understand how the Union works.

David-Cameron

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Papyrus

Based on my consumption habits, only two plants can compete for the title of my favourite plant: the tobacco plant and papyrus. Although most of the books that I read now haven’t been made out of papyrus anymore, I still hold this plant in high esteem for its contribution to literature (and more mundane documents).

Close to Syracuse in Sicily there are these wild papyrus bushes along the river Ciane.

Papyrus

Hardly anyone would ever find this far-off place. I was only in the area because I spent the night on an orange and lemon plantation close by. The next morning, the river was still covered in fog.

Papyrus Nebel

Papyrus Nebel 2

The river Ciane, which has its source here, is named after the nymph Kyane. She tried to prevent Hades’ abduction of Persephone, but failed and dissolved in tears. Those tears still feed the source of this river.

You can also see the papyrus growing in the city of Syracuse itself:

Papyrus Siracusa(Zur deutschsprachigen Fassung.)

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Did you notice the Irony? (15) Praying for Iraq

I wonder if religious people notice the irony of praying for help against other religious people.

praying against ISIS

What is God supposed to do when he/she/it receives prayers from the Islamic fundamentalists who ask him/her/it to help conquer Iraq as well as from Christians or other faithful who ask him/her/it to stop the Islamist fundamentalists?

After all, it’s the same God, both sides would claim.

Posted in Islam, Politics, Religion, Terrorism | Tagged , , , | 3 Comments

Bari tonight

I wanted to go outside to take a few photos of fans during the football match Italy versus England, but then I got held up by the moonlit Norman-Swabian Castle:

15June2014

Just in time before the end of the first half, I finally got going towards the square on Victor-Emanuel-Boulevard, where a second league match of the local club AS Bari was shown on the big screen last week.

Not knowing much about football and not being terribly interested in it either, I concluded that wherever a second league match is being shown in public there will surely be a live screening of the national team during a World Cup. I was wrong.

A yawning void. Only a poster: “Bari says thanks to Bari.”

Bari ringrazia la Bari

Pondering how to thank oneself and if it doesn’t lead to a confusion of rights if thanker and thankee are identical, I walked around the city a bit longer. Nowhere could I find any big screen, only a few small flat-screen TV sets outside of some restaurants, but that wasn’t spectacular enough for me.

Through deserted streets and filled with disappointment, I walked home. Italy won 2:1.

(Zur deutschen Fassung.)

Posted in Apulia, Italy, Photography, Sports | Tagged , | 9 Comments