Eastern Europe, where Low-Tech meets High-Tech

One of the many things I like about Eastern Europe is the contrast between low-tech and hi-tech, often in one and the same place.

For example, you might find yourself at a dilapidated bus station with crumbling concrete,

The bus station in Kolašin, Montenegro.

The bus station in Kolašin, Montenegro.

you step on a 40- to 60-year old bus,

A bus in Transnistria.

A bus in Transnistria.

from which nobody bothered to remove the old German writing, disclosing the second-hand nature of the vehicle,

I am not sure if this German advertising is very useful in Iași, Romania.

I am not sure if this German advertising is very useful in Iași, Romania.

you sit down in a worn-out seat, and you have free, reliable and fast wi-fi, even in the most remote mountain areas.

In Romania, you live in a house like this,

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but you have Europe’s fastest internet, for only a few euros a month.

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When you need to find the train station, you have to look for the hand-written sign,

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you will be in a station where the map on the wall still shows the border with Yugoslavia and the Soviet Union, 25 years after these countries’ break-up, and the air-conditioning on the train will consist of leaving the doors open during the trip. But you can follow the progress of all trains online,

cfr live map

although the speed indicated will make you weep again.

And it goes on like this, in a constant up-and-down, usually with private initiatives providing the up and public entities providing the down part. But there is this dynamic, not least because people are fed up with how slow government moves, so they take matters into their own hands. I find Eastern Europe more interesting than Western Europe because here in the East I feel like everything will look different in 3 or 5 years, while the West is relatively settled and static. I am curios what things and societies will be like when/if I will return from my South America trip after a few years.

Posted in Montenegro, Photography, Romania, Technology, Transnistria, Travel | Tagged | 5 Comments

Film Review: “The Man from UNCLE”

In a summer full of yet more stupid vampire, dragon, animation, monster and trying-to-be-funny movies, you have to be thankful for any spy movie that makes waiting for the next James Bond film a bit easier. Even if it’s not a particularly good one.

Actually, it’s better to treat The Man from UNCLE not as a spy movie, but as a period piece about the 1960s, for otherwise you might get disappointed. The plot is not particularly complicated, and if the film was set in the present, nobody would watch it. But these suits, these glasses, these cars, these colors, the interior design of the 1960s! It’s like leafing through a very old IKEA catalog.

Unfortunately, the actors aren’t more than models showing off the fashion of the time. They aren’t bad, but they aren’t remarkable either. Well, actually, Alicia Vikander is bad. She plays a German and has some lines in that language. I could only make them out thanks to the Romanian subtitles (although I am German and don’t speak any Romanian). Seriously, if you have to learn only a few lines of text and you can shoot the scene as often as possible, is it too much to ask to make an effort? Just ask Christoph Waltz how to do it. Veteran actor Hugh Grant who plays a minor role thus easily steals the show and has the film’s best line (“For a special agent, you are not having a very special day, are you?”).

The Man from UNCLE is one of these films which are nice to watch, but nobody would go for a second serving. Nothing spectacular, yet entertaining. The perfect movie for a date because you can easily chat (and more) in between without missing out on much. I mean, if someone can distract me from a spy movie, it can’t have been too good. That, or the girl was really cute.

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Posted in Cinema, Cold War | Tagged , , | 3 Comments

Modern Mecca

Is it still the Kaaba (the black box in the arena) which is supposed to be the holiest site in the world, or has Mecca just become another place to worship dollars and riyals (and a copy of Big Ben)?

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Posted in Economics, Islam, Religion, Saudi Arabia | Tagged , | 6 Comments

Piazza San Marco in Venice

San Marco 1San Marco 2San Marco 3San Marco 4San Marco 5San Marco night 1 San Marco night 2 San Marco night 3 San Marco night 4

Posted in Italy, Photography, Travel | Tagged | 2 Comments

The Carpathian Mountains are on Fire

At least it looked like that on the evening in December 2014, when my brother took these photos of the Făgăraș Mountains in Romania.

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Posted in Photography, Romania, Travel | Tagged , | 5 Comments

Cemetery Island

San Michele, the cemetery island of Venice in Italy:

San Michele 1

San Michele 2

And this is how you get there:

funeral boat Venice

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The Ghetto of Venice

Venice has the dubious distinction of being home to the world’s original ghetto, the area where in 1516 all the city’s Jews were ordered to move to. This came on top of other economic and social restraints, although the oppression was still less severe than in other parts of Europe and, ironically, these Dark Ages were not as dark as the allegedly enlightened 20th century.

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The Jews of Venice only achieved equal rights with other Venetians after the Unification with Italy in 1866. The following plaque honors the Venetian Jews who fought and died for Italy in World War I,

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but like in other Fascist/Nazi countries in Europe, this did not protect the community from the Holocaust only a few decades later. The memorial The Last Train commemorates the Venetian Jews deported to concentration camps.

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There is a Jewish Museum in the ghetto, but you shouldn’t get the wrong impression that the whole ghetto is a museum. People, now of all religions, live there, as this active bakery attests to.

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Posted in History, Holocaust, Italy, Photography, Religion, Travel | Tagged , , | 8 Comments

“Journey by Moonlight” by Antal Szerb

Despite my best efforts at revealing a lot of personal information about myself on this blog, most people don’t understand me at all. It’s not for lack of trying, they inquire about my life’s story, they spend days talking with me, they use psychoanalysis. But they never leave their own world. Because I live in a different world, they can’t understand me, try as they might. Most people just cannot imagine that someone is free of almost all bourgeois dreams and fears, that he doesn’t seek or need anything materialistic, that he is happiest when alone and that the conventional definition of success has absolutely no meaning for him.

Journey by Moonlight Antal SzerbThen there are the rare occasions when I read a novel and I think to myself that a particular fictional character would understand me. And I almost shudder at the thought that a real person, the author, is behind that fictional character. But so far, these authors have all been dead by the time I read their books.

Journey by Moonlight by Hungarian writer Antal Szerb is one novel that had this effect on me.

Mihály leaves his wife a few days into their honeymoon and goes off to explore Italy. Very soon he realizes that not only has he no desire to return to Budapest and the job at his father’s company, but that this is such an undesirable prospect that it simply isn’t an option anymore.

He knew that there was no going back. The whole horde of people and things pursuing him, the lost years and the entire middle-class establishment, fused in his visionary consciousness into a concrete, nightmarish shape. The very thought of his father’s firm was like a great steel bar raised to strike him.

And later:

His life would begin anew, not as it had been during all the wasted years. Incipit vita nova.

Mihály is so fixated on remembering, reliving and in a way returning to the happy days of his youth that he seeks out – and finds – his friends from that time. After decades have passed, these encounters naturally lack the satisfaction sought from them.

On this point, I am actually the opposite, for I am good and quick at laving things and people behind. I am a much more forward-looking person who thinks that a new experience is worth much more than doing the same thing again, even if I don’t know if the future will be better. It’s enough that it will be different.

But I find my views expressed very well in the words of Waldheim, a scholar whom Mihály encounters in Rome:

Anyone who isn’t actually stupid ought to study, in the interests of his soul’s salvation. It’s the only thing worth doing. […] To spend your time doing anything else, like working in a commercial company, for a man who isn’t totally stupid, I’ll tell you what that is: affectation.

And:

An intelligent person doesn’t have a spiritual life.

I have always thought that I should come with certain warning labels. In Journey by Moonlight, I have discovered the perfect description of my attitude which frustrates women in particular and makes relationships almost impossible:

He did not understand her since it never occurred to him that people other than himself had an inner life in which he might take an interest.

Apart from that personal resonance, I find the book very erudite and beautifully written. It is equally a feast for the brain and the soul. Although Journey by Moonlight has become one of my favorite novels, I wouldn’t recommend it to everyone, though. The plot is rather constructed with the coincidental encounters with long-lost friends piling on top of each other implausibly. And if you hate people like me, then you might dislike the protagonist as well.

Antal Szerb died at age 43, in a death so unfitting for such a marvelous writer, yet so symptomatic for the time he lived in. In January 1945, he was beaten to death by guards at Balf concentration camp in Hungary.

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Posted in Books, Hungary, Italy, Life, Love | Tagged , , | 9 Comments

Dead End?

In Venice, there aren’t really and dead ends, at last if you know how to swim.

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I am surprised how few people fall into the canals. Do Venetians drink less?

Posted in Italy, Photography, Travel | Tagged | 3 Comments

The sun thought it ruled the sky…

… but in reality, the clouds did.

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Photographed in Targu Mures, Romania on 19 September 2015.

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