Video Blog: Sounds of Skopje

It was evening when I arrived at Skopje and by the time I had made my way from the hostel to the city center, it had gotten dark. First time in Macedonia and I didn’t really know what to expect. But I definitely didn’t expect the center of the town to remind me of my time in Las Vegas.

Water fountains everywhere, but none of the simple kind, but those trick fountains with moving cascades of water, lighted in changing colors. Statues between them, enormous and brightly lit. And then the music from loudspeakers, in attempted harmony with the trick fountains. But it can’t keep up because there are around 20 of these water fountains in sight of each other, on both sides of the river, on the bridges across the river and – I never thought this was possible and I still don’t think it makes sense – water fountains in the river.

Staggering through this kitschy festival of light, marble, gold and music for an hour or two, I couldn’t hold back from laughing. It was too much, too out of place, too artificial. Nobody could take it seriously.

Here is a short clip for you:

 

And this went on all evening.

Although I had thought that he was, the man on the horse is not Alexander the Great, but an unnamed Warrior on a Horse who looks like Alexander the Great.

But Skopje also has a completely different side. The bazaar was still busy late at night when I made my way through it and up the hill with the fortress, where the air was fresher and everything was more quiet. The brightly lit statues and buildings were shining in the distance, but the music couldn’t reach me up here.

Only 15 minutes away from Disneyland, I listened to the city’s mosques. The video shows the view of Mustafa Pasha Mosque:

 

The muezzin’s call to prayer reminded me of my travels in the Middle East and I understood even less than before why some people in central Europe oppose the building of mosques. To me, the call to prayer has an exotic sound, but it is also calming in a way. On the way back to the hostel I had to walk through the center again, which was still clinking and jingling kitschily.

Skopje, the city with at least two very different sides to it. If Las Vegas and Mecca want to go on vacation together, they can come here.

(Zur deutschen Fassung dieses Video-Blogs.)

Posted in Cinema, Islam, Macedonia, Travel | Tagged | 12 Comments

Is there a discount if I get MA and PhD at the same time?

You can tell that something is wrong with higher education when university degrees are advertised at “999 €” prices like bicycles or package holidays.

999 university

(European University in Skopje, Macedonia.)

Posted in Economics, Macedonia, Photography, Travel | Tagged , | 4 Comments

Where UFOs park

It’s rather easy to take photos of UFOs in flight. They are loud, have lots of flashy lights and are trying to attract our attention. That’s why there are thousands of photos of UFOs while they are in the sky.

But so far, nobody found out where they go afterwards. When they run out of fuel or when the crew need to take their prescribed rest.

On a trip to the island of Sardinia, I discovered the secret UFO parking space, just as one of the UFOs had landed on it. I only discovered it because it hadn’t switched off its lights yet.

UFO1 UFO2 UFO3

(Photographs taken at Oristano in Sardinia. If you are really nice, I can tell you the exact spot. – Hier geht es zur deutschen Fassung dieser exklusiven Fotos.

Posted in Italy, Photography, Sardinia, Technology, Travel | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Sue me!

Being a blogger is dangerous. If you make fun of Al-Qaeda, you will be beheaded one day. If you write about Mexican drug cartels, they try to run you over. And then there are the constant cease-and-desist letters and lawsuits copyright or trademark infringement, defamation, libel, slander and betrayal of state secrets.

The latter don’t worry me much.

Not only because I am a lawyer and know that you can safely ignore most cease-and-desist letters, but because I live in Italy. If somebody threatens to sue me, I can respond with a clear conscience “Please, sue me!” and provide my address for formal service. Because by the time the complaint will be served, I will probably live somewhere else already.

Italy civil trialsOn average (!) it takes 8 years for a civil proceeding in Italy to be concluded with a final verdict. Civil trials generally are not the fastest (and not only courts are to blame, as it is often in the parties’ and their lawyers’ interest to drag out the case), but the chart on the right shows that Italian courts are extra-slow. I worked as an attorney – in Germany – for 7 years. Had I spent the same time working as a lawyer in Italy, it would have been possible that on my last day at work none of my cases would have been completed. That can’t be a satisfying job.

When Mario Barbuto became president of the civil court in Turin 12 years ago, he discovered that the oldest pending case had been initiated 43 years earlier. It must have occupied generations of plaintiffs, defendants, lawyers, liquidators and intervenors like in Bleak House by Charles Dickens. In Italy altogether there is a backlog of 5.2 million cases.

That problem and its tactical usefulness are well-known outside of Italy under the menacing name “Italian torpedo”. If you expect that you will soon be sued before a British court for example, you can file a request for a negative declaratory judgement on the same subject matter with an Italian court. Then the British proceeding is put on the back burner [to use simplified language that won’t confuse laypeople] until the Italian court will have issued its ruling. And that may take years.

It’s easy to make fun of the Italian justice system. But it’s not justified. Because from time to time there are cases here that earn my respect. Only two examples, both criminal proceedings though:

  • Italy is the only country to have convicted secret agents for one of the extraordinary renditions of terror subjects which took place after 2001. In 2003 Abu Omar was abducted in Milan by the CIA and was taken to Egypt. Italian prosecutors investigated and were able to determine the kidnappers’ identities. The brought charges against the Americans and Italians involved. Despite enormous political pressure to drop the case or to let it rest, 23 CIA agents were convicted to prison sentences (although the Italian government refused to seek their extradition from the USA). The former director of Italian Military Intelligence was sentenced to 10 years in prison, his deputy to 9 years. Prosecutors in other European countries from which people had been abducted opened a pro forma file, if at all, and then let it gather dust.
  • A few months ago, a court in Taranto convicted 27 managers of the largest steelworks in Europe to up to 9 years in prison for, inter alia, involuntary manslaughter (cancer caused by asbestos and pollution). Everywhere else, pollution is dealt with in the administrative or civil court system and financial compensation is all that is required. Outside of Italy, not many prosecutors and judges dare to indict the managers personally.

There are a few things that other countries could learn from Italy.

(Zur deutschen Fassung dieses Artikels.)

Posted in Italy, Law | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

My favourite demand by a hijacker

Glenn K Tripp hijackerPrint this and put it on the bulletin board at your office.

Posted in Terrorism, Travel | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Is this the most beautiful cemetery in the world?

Macedonia is full of cemeteries.

Or maybe I just got this impression because every larger town has more than one resting place for its ancestors, always at least a Christian, a Muslim and a Jewish one. The latter hardly have any graves though, because almost all Macedonian Jews were deported to the Treblinka concentration camp by the Bulgarian occupiers in 1943 and were murdered there.

Then there are German, French and British cemeteries. I did know that World War I was not limited to the central European eastern and western fronts (otherwise it would hardly have earned the name World War), but I only became really aware of the geographic extent of that war when I saw the 100-year old places where the dead were collected, still strictly separated by nationality, in distant Macedonia.

The most beautiful cemetery in Macedonia is the Turkish cemetery in Bitola, dating from the time of the Ottoman Empire and no longer looked after since the demise of that era. If it hadn’t been marked on the map, I never would have discovered it. And if I had discovered it accidentally, I would have walked past without paying attention or snapped a photo which I would have published under the title “grainfield with clouds”.

Turkish cemetery Bitola panorama clouds

Only at second sight, I could make out a few gravestones between oat and barley.

Turkish cemetery 2

The more I wandered around this wilderness on a hill, the more testimony to the past I discovered, unfortunately all of them in writing which I could not decipher. This Turkish cemetery was abandoned before Mustafa Kemal Atatürk implemented the Latin alphabet. Atatürk himself had probably been on this hill a few times because he had begun his training at the military school in Bitola in 1896. Maybe he secretly smoked his first cigars here.

Turkish cemetery 3

Grabstein im Hafer

This historical photo from World War I shows the view from the cemetery hill over the city (which is called Monastir in Turkish and Greek). Even back then, you can already see how nature has begun to wrest back control.

Turkish cemetery Bitola historicIn this country which has seen a lot of wars, civil wars, revolutions and struggles for freedom in the past 100 years, there is a place where time stands still. The golden cornstalks sway in the wind. The clouds hurry past and cast their shadows, just as history has done from time to time.

(Zur deutschen Fassung dieses Artikels.)

Posted in History, Islam, Macedonia, Photography, Travel | Tagged , , | 10 Comments

Video: Robinson Crusoe

Sometimes, when I am stranded on a new island and I walk along the beach for hours to see if there is anyone else who is still alive or if I can find some food, I feel like Robinson Crusoe.

What a tough life.

Posted in Books, Cinema, Italy, Life, Sardinia, Travel, Video Blog | Tagged | Leave a comment

But cigars are permitted

pipes and cigarettesI discovered this rather selective smoking ban in a deserted village on the island of Caprera off Sardinia.

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Dark clouds are not necessarily bad

… at least not for photographers.

I took so many photos of the church of Saint John at Kaneo in Ohrid in Macedonia, but I’ll share the ones which show that this was not a perfect day. It had been raining on and off, and I spent a few hours walking around, always rushing back to the Orthodox church as soon as the sun broke through the clouds for a minute.

dark clouds Sveto Jovan Ohrid 1 dark clouds Sveto Jovan Ohrid 2 dark clouds Sveto Jovan Ohrid 3Patience (lucky me that I had cigars and a book with me) and seeking out a good spot while it was still overcast paid off.

(Hier geht es zur deutschen Fassung.)

Posted in Macedonia, Photography, Travel | Tagged | 5 Comments

Is Albania already in the EU?

Not yet. Only in June 2014 Albania received the official status as a candidate for accession to the EU. Now the negotiations will start for real, and this process usually takes years.

Travelling through Albania, one might however gain a different impression. Whether out of anticipation or out of self-confidence, the EU flag already flies in front of public buildings.

EU flag in AlbaniaNice to see that the EU still has a positive appeal. Don’t listen to all the crisis talk! If you want to understand Europe, you have to travel more instead of reading British tabloids or attending UKIP rallies.

(The photo shows the police station of Vlora in July 2014. – Klicken Sie hier, um diesen Beitrag auf Deutsch zu lesen.)

Posted in Albania, Europe, Photography, Politics, Travel | Tagged , | 1 Comment