Birthday Trip 2017: Caucasus

After staying at my father’s house in Germany for two weeks, he reminded me of the tradition to go on a road trip for my birthday, coming up on 6 July. When my plans were too petty – some hiking here, some hiking there – he said: “Think of the place where you always wanted to go, the country that is always in your dreams but that you have never seen. I’ll pay you the flight.”

It was obvious that he wanted to get me out of the house.

I didn’t have to hesitate a second, for I have long had a fascination with the Caucasus, that region where Europe and Asia meet quietly and out of the limelight while all eyes are turned on Istanbul. But Istanbul is only there because one needed a plughole to drain the Black Sea, while the real Eurasian borderlands are in Georgia,

Kloster Georgien



and Azerbaijan.


From 30 June to 18 July, I shall find out if my fascination has been justified. And, as I have no idea yet where to move next, I am open to coming into a hitherto unknown town – unknown only to me, that is – where I will be enchanted enough to want to live there. If only the languages weren’t scaring me off.


And because many readers will still be wondering “where???”, here is a map:


If you want a postcard from this trip, I will gladly send you one for a small donation.

(Diesen Beitrag auf Deutsch lesen.)

About Andreas Moser

Travelling the world and writing about it. I have degrees in law and philosophy, but I'd much rather be a writer, a spy or a hobo.
This entry was posted in Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Travel and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

24 Responses to Birthday Trip 2017: Caucasus

  1. Nikoloz says:

    Best wishes for Birthday Andreas! Have a nice trip to #Georgia. You friend Nikoloz, sorry cant meet you up still in Malta! good time of the season is to wait for new articles.

    • Thank you very much!
      I am already excited to finally explore your country. Greetings to our old home in Malta!

    • Ana says:

      Nikoloz, samcuxarod tkveni megobari afxazets rogorc damoukidebel.kvekqnas ise uyurebs da bevei mcdelobis miuxedavad mainc ar agiarebs rogorc saqartvelos okupirebul teritorias.

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  3. timburford says:

    I’ll be in Georgia at the end of July, I think, and in October. I’ll send you details of some people who might rent you a room in Tbilisi.

    • Thank you very much! This time I will just stay a few days in places and use Couchsurfing or stay in hotels (after all, it’s my birthday :-) ), but if I decide to move there, I would be looking for a similarly cozy krushkovka apartment as you saw in Romania.

  4. timburford says:

    PS are you interested in hiking in Tusheti – the remotest part of Georgia?

    • timburford says:

      PS just setting this to receive notification of replies.

    • I would love to!
      But on this trip, I won’t have time to get that deep into the mountains, sadly, nor will I have my camping equipment with me.
      But if I enjoy Georgia, I will return for a longer hiking trip or maybe even move there for a year.

    • timburford says:

      Yes, bringing the tent etc is my problem too. Decisons decisions…

    • Ana says:

      After visiting Abkhazia without informing Georgian goverment, I guess it will a little bit complicated ..

    • Not at all.
      I crossed the border between Georgia and Abkhazia in both directions without any major problems. At each border post, I had to wait until they made some phone calls about me. At the Abkhaz border, I had to answer more questions and they wanted to look into my backpack. But they were still friendly (even speaking English and German).
      When I returned to Georgia from Abkhazia, it was a very friendly welcome, too.

    • Most people seem to cross the border without even checking in or out at the Georgian police checkpoint. They just wave at each other and everything is fine. This relates to cars with Georgian and with Abkhaz licence plates which were going back and forth without inspection.
      Quite a relaxed border, you just need to bring some time to wait. At the Georgian border post, there is even free wifi.

  5. Florent says:

    If you’re interested in wine and if ever you’re in Batumi, the only place we could find that had kvevri wines (the ancient vinification form, undergoing a real revival in Georgia with the most interesting wines done with that metthod) was a place called “Wine House Batumi”. They have a facebook page.
    Enjoy your time in Georgia!

  6. Joe says:

    Have fun meeting new, hot girls who are better and more beautiful than anywhere else!

  7. Arthur says:

    You are a terrible person.

  8. Aysel Sultan says:

    So curious to learn about your impressions! Did you write a post-trip blog?

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